A black and yellow flower pin composed of two petal layers with polka dots on the black petals.
There are two components in flower pin creation. They are, in fact, the flower pin structure itself and then the flower pin decoration afterwards.
For the purposes of defining the first aspect of flower pins, in other words the structure, there are one layer, two layer first, then three, four, and five petal layers next. The top three are usually embellishment layers without any structural function.
A further refinement of the decoration process is one or a combination of enamel spray, paint brush, polka dots, and embellishment layers. Descriptions of both components, structure and decoration are in this post.
The basic flower power pin found on ebay and etsy is a one petal layer flower with petal spray in one color and the center in another color spray. Then the stem is green and tends to rub off over the years.
STRUCTURE
Primarily the pins are molded steel, not your typical metal for jewelry making. Molded steel is inexpensive and easy to use. During the time period that the pin creation is voluminous and very inexpensive, the molded steel pins are easily cranked out with a simple spray application of enamel paint consisting of one or at most two colors. The giant daisy pins are an outstanding example of this.
Two layer complimenting petal colors of the very popular, giant daisy pin found on ebay
DECORATION
The earliest pins are simple sprayed enamel. But as time goes on and the pins become more decorative and less socio-political, both the structure and decoration become both more complicated and more expensive. In addition there are more layers or the two layers have decoration.
Polka Dots In fact, polka dots liberally come in to play in flower pin creation. WOW, how popular polka dots are. Actually, polka dots play a major design role in all kinds of fashions.
A collection of six polka dot decorated pins
Embellishment Layers To top this off, the extra embellishment layers create quite stunning pins. These usually third, fourth, and fifth layers are embellishment layers with no structural purpose at all but plenty of decorative appeal. The addition to base enamel spray are possible wisps of brush strokes, more layers of petals, hole punches in the outer layer and other adornment at the center to finish it off.
A collection of six, three and four layer embellished flower pins
CONCLUSION
The flower power pin is still both abundant and very popular today. Unfortunately, the major difference is the price. They are no longer socio-political hand outs but pricey collectibles. In fact, I gingerly collect them as I have to save up to purchase them.
Lenore Dame Metal Flower Brooch in Gold & Violet – One-of-a-KindAnd my newest purchase is what I believe to be a relative to the embellished flower power pin. It is in fact this three layer magnificent pin. You can learn more about these magnificent brooches at these links.
My next flower pin purchase requires that I have a plan to help me decide what I choose before I take any further action related to flower power pins or other similar jewelry. In fact, the best way for me to do this is to take an inventory of my current collection including others pins that I would like in my collection.
In order to do this I am using a system like the Dewey Decimal System. It will allow me to organize both sets of pins. Since there are so many of them in existence, there is no way I could accomplish this task without it. Therefore it can include pins I have and pins I would like to have.
1A. Original one layer flower power earrings without stems and three pins with stems
Earrings without stems and three one layer original pins with stems
1B. Diversified one layer flower power pins with stems
The above FPP styles all found on ebay are what I consider diversified not classic FPP.
Actually some of these unusual styles are my favorites. In order to learn more about them, go to this link, Flower Power Jewelry Rocks
2A. Original colorful giant two layer pins with and without stem
A collection of two layer giant daisy pins with and without stem from ebay
2B. Diversified two layer pins
Two layer diversified pin with and without stem
3A. Embellished three and four layer flower pins
Three and four layer embellished flower power pins
4A. Signed pieces as a transition from three and four layer embellished flower power pins
These three sets of pins transcend flower power pins primarily because they are signed and not anonymous.
5A. More About my possible next flower pin purchase
It takes no more than a quick glance at all the pins above to know which ones I would like to get. Because they have become rather expensive compared to their original prices, I do not know how long it will take to get my next flower pin purchase. None the less these are the ones I would choose:
1B. middle pin
2B. left pin
3A. all three
4A. right pin or another early Lenora Dame Studio pin
5A. two right pins
What will it be? A One-of-a-Kind Lenore Dame Metal Flower Brooch in Gold & Violet
I made my decision and I am counting the days until my pin arrives. It is an early Lenora Dame Studio brooch. In fact, the colors are magnificent. Because of this I wanted it from the very first time I saw a picture of it. At first I thought I had found a very special flower power pin. But I realized it was not because I recognized certain details that are different from the flower power pin. To learn more, go to flower power pins.
DEFINITION AND DESCRIPTION OF FLOWER POWER AND PINS
Description: ‘An affordable token, a flower shaped symbol of flower power constructed of molded steel and enamel paint that represents the socio-political mood of the mid 1960s to 1970s.’
In fact, there is such an abundance of mass produced pins that their identity remains a mystery even to this day. Specifically, there are no identifying marks, no designer names, no known countries of origin, or anything to distinguish or identify them.
Actually, the definition of flower power itself is almost as undocumented as the origin of the flower power pins themselves. In fact this post can do little more than gather up descriptions and anecdotes of flower power and pins.
Flower Power image above and quote to the right and below from the article in 1-800flowers.com ‘petal talk®’ written by Michelle Yastremsky
The Background “Coined in 1965 by acclaimed poet and voice of his generation Allen Ginsberg, ‘flower power’ was used to inspire a movement in which anti-war demonstrators focused on positive values such as peace and love to instead of brute force and rebellion in order to ‘fight’ for freedom.”
The Concept ‘The concept first comes into being while Ginsberg helps organize a protest against the Vietnam War in Berkeley, California.’
Ginsberg Essay ‘In his essay “Demonstration or Spectacle as Example, As Communication,” Ginsberg describes a tactic using peace as a “weapon.” He suggests “masses of flowers – a visual spectacle – especially concentrated on the front lines.”
He continues, “…marchers should bring harmonicas, flutes, recorders, guitars, banjos, and violins.” The Beatnik poet goes on to invite all previously persecuted groups to join the revolution, turning the phrase into a movement of peace, hope, unity, and above all – imagination.’
Allen Ginsberg Beatnik Poet and coiner of the term “flower power” from bluerailroad.wordpress
The History of Flower Power by Michelle Yastremsky
“The ‘Flower’ in flower power
Quoting from Michelle Yastremsky “The hippies of the 1960s and 1970s take Ginsberg’s message of peaceful protesting and incorporate it into their fashions and culture. Both men and women wear flowers from on their clothing to in their hair.
“Flowers in their hair range from floral head wreaths to slipping a single a dandelion into their groovy headbands (a trend that has resurfaced in fashion today). Bright, floral prints become extremely popular as do floral inspired patches.
“Some hippies even paint the flower symbol on their faces to show their support and dedication to the cause. With its natural and simplistic beauty, it’s not surprising that the flower becomes the ultimate symbol of peace and love for this counterculture and era!”
How Flower Power Worked PREV NEXT By: Cristen Conger
“Although Ginsberg’s essay doesn’t use the exact phrase “flower power,” he was the first to expound on the potency of flowers as “a visual spectacle” to simultaneously disarm opponents and influence thought.”
Vintage Jewelry Design ‘Classics to Collect and Wear by Caroline Cox
Vintage Jewel Design, Classics to collect and wear Vintage jewelry design classics to collect and wear by Caroline Cox published by Lark Jewelry & Beading, pg.139[/caption]
LarkCrafts.com
An Imprint of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.
387 Park Avenue South, NYC, NY 10016
A Lenora Dame Studio Brooch beside an original one layer flower power pin
Some early Lenora Dame Brooches may be flower power pin direct descendants. Both have a shared design element like a child who resembles a parent.
FLOWER POWER PIN DESIGN EMBELLISHMENT
Flower pin embellishment involves the ecolution from a single layer pattern through multi-layer pins.
First come the simple, one layer flower power pins. Then over a period of time they likely evolve into the multi-tiered, embellished flower power pins as we call them. A picture of this is at the left.
EARLY LENORA DAME STUDIO BROOCHES
After embellished flower pins are the rage come the magnificent, early Lenora Dame Brooches. But the brooches themselves are not flower power pins. In fact, they cannot be. The explanation for this is available in the article Not A Flower Power Pin.
None the less, they appear to have a relationship to flower power pins. In fact early Lenora Dame brooches could be the very next generation of pins in the continuation of a logical design ancestry from anonymous simple then embellished flower power pins to identifiable, early Lenora Dame Studio jewelry.
Another resemblance between Lenora Dame Studio and an embellished flower power pin.
Example As another example of their offspring to strengthen this conclusion that some early Lenora Dame brooches are the flower pin direct descendants is the following pair. See the pictures at left to observe them.
Enlargement Enlarged Lenora Dame brooch on the left and embellished flower pin on the right.
Close Up Here is an enlargement of these two brooches to reveal a leaf appearing directly before the center of the pin that is unusual but in both these pins. The leaf is light blue on the Lenora Dame brooch on the left and white on the embellished flower pin to the right.
IINTERGENERATIONAL EVOLUTION
From left to right, the evolution from the original, basic flower power pin to the Lenora Dame Studio brooch
CONCLUSION
Although there is no other written correlation that the early Lenora Dame Studio brooches are flower power pin direct descendants, the evidence that I detail above offers a logical explanation in its favor. Hopefully this information will shed some light on the pin evolution since no other documentation exists from extensive research.
A Lenora Dame Studio Brooch with a classic flower power pin at its center
THE FLOWER PIN EVOLUTION
It is first the original flower power pin, a token in the shape and spirit of a flower that is a symbol of a socio-political statement.
Then over time it transforms into a magnificent piece of jewelry with more monetary than political value. In other words, it starts out as a simple, very affordable pin with one or two layers of petals.
With time The evolution continues into jewelry with three or four layers of petals even with added costume jewelry in its center. But keep in mind, these are not classic flower power pins.
Flower Pin Evolution from classic, basic one layer petals to Lenora Dame magnificent jewelry.Flower Brooches from Lenora Dame Studio all with strong resemblance to flower power pins
FURTHER FLOWER PINS EVOLUTIONS
With time, tastes, and politics, comes the distant relatives to flower pins jewelry evolution. One stops seeing everyday flower tokens replaces with more expensive and extravagant signed pieces.
Flower Brooches Evolved beyond flower power pins
MORE FLOWER JEWELRY
One can look in hindsight for inspiration from flower pins to growing numbers of signed, costume and costly jewelry. Before, during, and after the flower power movement, flowers have always brought joy to the heart. Here are some precious examples.
Flower power pin styles blossom in anonymous abundance just as wildflowers bloom in nature in all their colorful splendor.
Neither identification nor documentation exist for flower power pin styles in all their varieties before their huge popularity, during their craze in the 1960s and 70s, or even today as collectibles.
Therefore the opportunity continues to exist for a collector like myself to attempt to identify and provide a clear definition of them now in 2024. Let’s start with the components that qualify a 1960s-1970s brooch for flower power pin recognition.
CLASSIC FLOWER POWER PIN COMPONENTS
Here are the basic flower power pin components:
a. each component is molded steel
b. each component color(s) is enamel paint
c. there are usually one or two layers of petals (sometimes three even four) that are symmetrical on each layer
d. the front of the pin looks like a daisy
e. the center is also molded steel with a color of enamel paint
f. stems are also steel with enamel paint
g. the back of the pin component that holds it all together is a continuous screw in mechanism also made of metal
h. a center ‘button’ made of the same material but not necessarily the same color
The four images above illustrate the components of flower power pins
CLASSIC FLOWER POWER PIN STYLES
The following are all symmetrical daisy petal pins. Small pins have one layer of petals. Next, medium pins can have two layers of petal. Last, large pins can have three and even four layers of petals:
a. small (@1 1/2″ diameter)
b. small with stem (@ 3″ long)
c. medium (@2 1/2″ diameter)
d. medium with stem (@ 3 3/4″ long)
e. large (3″ diameter)
f. large with stem (unknown)
Flower power pin styles with sizes listed in text
MY CONCLUSION
The FPP that I have described and illustrated here are what I consider to be the original classic FPP templates and designs. There are many other styles in addition that are shown below. I suspect they are from other companies. Since I know of no contrary documentation, I conclude my study as such.
DERIVATIVE COMPONENTS AND STYLES OF FLOWER PINS
The following are what I call derivative flower pins. They do not fit the parameter of either of the first two sets of illustrations. But they loosely fit the idea but not the classic definition of a flower power pin style.
The above FPP styles all found on ebay are what i consider derivatives not classic FPP
MORE DISCUSSION ABOUT FLOWER POWER/FLOWER POWER PINS
Polka Dot Flower Brooch Pin Purple White Enamel Long Stem Floral Vintage on ebay
‘Flower Power Pins: The 1960s-1970s’ is the ongoing mystery of the flower power pin. In order to get a clue to this mystery, it is necessary to learn about collectible vintage jewelry before, during, and after the existence these pins themselves.
In addition this collection of articles chronicles my journey that leads to them, the pins themselves, and the course I take in search of them. Actually, it is the course I am still on to this day.
My Journey
At first, I do not start out attempting to solve this mystery. In fact, I do not even know there was an unsolved situation compared to other costume jewelry of that time, the 1960s into the 1970s. As I dig deeper the mystery becomes even darker. This is because the more I look for identification and verification, the less I find. Therefore, the more questions I have.
The Anonymous Pins In fact, I can find nothing in writing that identifies these beauties. For example, what is their place of origin? where they are manufactured? who designed them? Is this information purposely hidden or is it just a coincidence? Is it possible that these answers do not have significance when they are made and it is only now that these questions tug at me to know these answers?
Invitation So, without further ado here is the path I take, where is starts, where it leads me, and where I am now. Be forewarned that it is not a straight line. And it is not even complete. But this is where solving the mystery is today. It by no means is complete yet. So join me on my journey to solving the flower power mystery.
On 1st dibs.com a Butler and Wilson Gripoix Brooch
I swoon over my favorite collectible treasures. In fact, sometimes I even get heart palpitations or break out into a cold sweat when I see them.
All my favorite collectible treasures are featured on line. Sometimes due to their cost and lack of availability, they can only become mine in my dreams.
IN MY DREAMS Then I have to be content with including them in online stories like this one with photos of them. On occasion, I can purchase one or save up to get one as a special treat.
Specifically the vintage collectibles I treasure most are accessories, namely handbags and jewelry. Some have been affordable and assessable. Some are not. Here are examples of both.
HANDBAGS
Coach, Dooney & Bourke My love of handbags started decades ago with Coach as well as Dooney & Bourke. They were all new when I started to buy them. But over time I discovered collecting, in other words, vintage. Infact, my taste runs towards the vintage rather than the new.
Lucite Beehive Then I travel further backwards to discover the vintage handbag(s) I am wild about today. Probably one of the most extraordinary handbags I have ever seen is a lucite handbag called beehive.
A closeup of metal bees to left. Handbag itself below closed and open. The bees are made out of metal. Considered the ‘Holy Grail’ of Lucite bags.
Furla Thermoplastic The composition of these outrageous bags is thermoplastic or rubber. In fact, there are two incarnations of these unique and totally desirable handbags. The 1970s reveals the first delicious version as the jelly bags. Then the second reveal is the candy re•bag at the Milan Fashion Week in 2022. Furla Re•candy exhibit at the 2022 Milan Fashion Week featured in a Town & Country article, photo courtesy of Furla.
Judith Leiber Bags These handbags are really kookie and ultimately are meant to be talked about evening bags. As much as their sticker price on it own is topic for conversation, their themes are as well. For example, this donut shaped sparkle clutch can’t hold more than a house key, handkerchief, and the proverbial ‘dime for a phone call’ goes for just under $1,000 second hand. Notice that there’s no room for a cell phone. But I am sure anyone would lend its wearer their cell phone if necessary. 21st Century Judith Leiber Donut with Rainbow Sprinkles Clutch on 1st dibs.com
JEWELRY
Flower Power Pins 1960s Flower Power Pink Yellow Polka Dot Brooch Enameled VintageI was collecting flower power pins before I really even know what they are and represent. The one pictured here is one of my favorites. It is even better looking in person.
Lenora Dame Studio A brooch from the early days of the Lenora Dame StudioIn the early days of the establishment of her studio, the Lenora Dame brooches looked like derivatives of flower power pins. In fact, as jewelry rather than socio-political statements, they are quite beautiful.
To the left is an example of one of her early brooches. Notice that there are three layers that alone are in the style of a flower power pin. Then for an added touch of that genre is a flower power pin in the center.
Stanley Hagler N.Y.C. Gorgeous Vibrant Glass Bead Flowers Vintage Pin Brooch This is one of my favorite collectible treasures that will remain a dream. At $499. All I can do is enjoy the pictures and history of this magnificent pin.
Notice the derivative of the flower power pin with two glass bead flowers and lots of additional glass decoration. For more information about Stanley Hagler N.Y.C., click on the link.
CONCLUSION
Whether you dream about vintage collectible treasures or collect them yourself, I hope you will find these favorites of mine as much of a pleasure as I do.
A derivative of a flower power pin from the Lenora Dame Studio. The inner layer of this brooch is actually an original flower power pin.
When I first saw this pin I thought it was a four layer flower power pin. In fact, looking closely, I am sure the top yellow daisy pin layer is an authentic flower power pin.
But there are several aspects that disqualify the sum total of layers from being an original socio-political statement.
In other words it is NOT an authentic flower power pin. It is a piece of jewelry, even a work of art. But more about that to come later in this blog post.
This is a collection of Lenora Dame brooches all in the style of flower power pins.
HISTORY
‘The first seeds of this company are planted when Lenora gives up her thriving career as an advertising executive to focus full time on designing jewelry using her personal button collection.’ Note that she also uses a flower power pin as a layer.’ Her sister, Alison Dame, soon takes business operations in hand, and in 2001 Dame Design, LLC and a full accessories collection is born.’
Description “Noted especially for her iconic “haute bohemian” collections of necklaces, earrings and bracelets, designer Lenora Dame has set herself apart with a fearless approach that genetically recombines . . . ” Yahoo.com
Influences There are many creative influences to this jewelry. To understand the group of brooches featured here, visit these two blogpost, Not A Flower Power Pin and Flower Power Pin Mystery.
LENORA DAME BROOCH DESCRIBED IN LAYERS
To me this pieces is a work of art. In this context, I wish to go into a detailed examination of it.
A four layer Lenora Dame brooch in the style of a flower power pin but decorative not socio-political
A. The first layer has intentional holes in it and is sage green with a spray of purple
B. The second layer is copper with brush strokes of navy blue
C. The third layer is light cobalt blue
D. The fourth layer is a pin in itself composed of gold colored metal and green rhinestones
INSPIRATION I do believe that the jewelry at this stage of Lenora Dame’s studio career used flower power pins are her inspiration. But from this layer analysis, I will show why this brooch is not and can not be a flower power pin. It can only be and is derivative of a FPP. The reasons are that they are attributed to her and most likely signed.
Also they are either one-of-a-kind or very limited editions. Clearly some hand work has gone into these pieces rather than mass produced items. None the less they are a delightful addition to the world of vintage costume jewelry.
This Lenora Dame piece is also derivative of a flower power pin. It is four layers plus a gold pin with turquoise rhinestones in the center. The layers are specifically, burgundy, copper and tan, sage, gold leaves.
Lenore Dame Metal Flower Brooch in Gold & Violet – One-of-a-Kind Jewelry but not a flower power pin due to the embellishments of gold and stones in the center of it.
This magnificent brooch from around the time of Flower Power Jewelry is Not A Flower Power Pin.
The reason is that it has gold filigree, decorative stones and is a one of a kind piece. So it is derivative of this jewelry not a flower power pin.
Decorative Vintage Pin This is a vintage upscale design inspired by the very popular actual flower power pin from around the 1960s. But it is a piece of jewelry from The Lenore Dame Studio using some of the basic FPP elements but for profit and decoration rather than a socio-political statement.
What is a Flower Power Pin The official description of a flower power pin (or FPP for short) is that it has a daisy pattern made from “molded steel and colored with enamel paint” exclusively. So anything else would not be an official FPP even if it looks similar to it. In fact a major distinction is that a FPP never has a designers identity and is not one-of-a-kind. Here are some examples.
These four Flower-Power-Brooches differ in daisy colors and number of petal layers only. The stem is not a distraction from their design. They have all but only the elements to qualify them as flower power pins.
What is Not a Flower Power Pin A daisy design pattern that has more than just molded steel and sprayed enamel is not official FPP although many are categorized as such today. If a piece has a matching pair of earring, its status is also questionable. Lastly, if a piece has a designer name on it, it can not be FPP. It is jewelry and its purpose is decorative. Here are some additional examples.
There are similarities between the two groups of pins. But the second group is derivative of the first. The style attempts to be similar. But that is as far as it goes. There are gemstones, gold veneer, signed by the designer, and are much more costly than flower power pins.
Why Is the Distinction So Important?
As explained in the previous blog post, The Flower Power Mystery, flower power pins are more important socially than artistically. This is not to say that they are not adorable, colorful, and collectible. But at the height of their existence, they are making a socio-political statement rather than being just decorative.
A Second Thought on Anonymity The fact that the flower power pins had no identifying marks and that nothing is written about their origin may have a very simple explanation. Companies may not have minded manufacturing them. But perhaps they did not want the public to know what their socio-political positions were. To avoid that, they remained anonymous in every way they could.
Flower Power by Definition Actually the term ‘flower power’ was coined by beatnik poet Allen Ginsberg, to symbolize peace, love, and non-violence. Keep in mind that their popularity is during the Vietnam War era. Therefore a FPP represents the anti-Vietnam War sentiment that many young people of that time feel. Instead of being just a pretty piece of jewelry, an official FPP makes a socio-political statement that is recognizable even today.
A collection of six polka dot decorated pins
A collection of six, three and four layer embellished flower pins
Earrings without stems and three one layer original pins with stems 
The above FPP styles all found on ebay are what I consider diversified not classic FPP.
A collection of two layer giant daisy pins with and without stem from ebay
Three and four layer embellished flower power pins
