"Miriam Haskell jewellery is some of the most prized and beautiful costume jewellery from the 20th century.
"The intricate designs coupled with their novel colours and materials have made Haskell jewellery hugely coveted by collectors, with the most elaborate pieces fetching many hundreds of pounds".
This would be dollars on the US market where her jewelry did and does sell today.
Geometry This very unique multi color glass geometric shaped brooch below is one of my favorites. So much of Miriam Hess jewelry was floral in nature.
It is refreshing to see a geometric shaped piece for a change. This multi color glass brooch is very hard to find.
HISTORY
"Miriam began her fashion career in New York city working as a milliner but pivoted to jewellery in 1926 when she opened her first shop, named Le Bijou de l'Heure.
"Haskell was a very private lady and not a lot of information is known about her personal life, however she was recognized as an elegantly dressed lady with style and a keen business sense.
"Her eponymous jewellery line swiftly gained recognition for its handmade, top-quality pieces. The scrupulous attention to detail and beauty of the jewellery quickly won fans among Hollywood stars and the most stylish ladies of the era."
MIRIAM HASKELL'S ROLE IN THE COMPANY
"It isn’t known if Miriam herself ever designed any of the pieces sold by the Haskell company. Although she was very involved in the day to day operations of her business, one of her most crucial decisions was to have hired a jewellery designer, former Macy’s window dresser, Frank Hess. Frank was with the company for decades and helped to develop the Haskell signature style.
"Over the 1930s the Haskell business was expanded until it occupied multiple shops and had headquarters on the famed Fifth Avenue. Haskell jewellery was also sold in the most exclusive department stores in America with pieces available in Europe at top end shops like Harvey Nichols in London, UK.
"Sadly, Miriam became ill in the 1940s and eventually sold her company to her brother in 1951, although Frank Hess stayed on and held a central role for many years. Miriam eventually passed away in 1981."[1]
Longevity Miriam Haskell Jewellery preceded, coexisted with, and continued after flower power brooches were all the rage. Although in a higher price range, they are equal to the glamorous flower power pins and flower pins.
MIRIAM HASKELL Hess natural and dyed wooden beads and florets pin in red, green and blue, 3".
It has wood grained acorns topped by woven multi-colored bead caps and stars on the pin top, wonderful workmanship and a great combination for this brooch.
A Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell piece of jewelry, it is unsigned as was typical for this era, circa 1940, and in excellent condition.
Miriam Haskell Designers[2]
Frank Hess (1926 - 1960):
When collectors think of Miriam Haskell they immediately think of Frank Hess. He was with Haskell virtually from the beginning and stayed until 1960. He was responsible for the Signature Look which involved heavily beaded, intricate designs. He loved to layer pieces and didn’t leave any visible metal structure. His pieces were often asymmetric.
Robert Clark (1958-1968):
Robert was an artist prior to being employed by Frank Hess and worked as his assistant until becoming head designer when Frank left the company. Robert favoured three-dimension structured pieces which tended toward symmetry. He liked using large bold beads and would bend wires and filigrees to add height. He often employed solder rather than the sole use of wires as had been done previously. Robert left Miriam Haskell in the late 1960s to form the de Lillo company with William de Lillo.
Peter Raines (1968 - 1970):
Peter Raines was head designer between Robert Clark and Lawrence Vrba. He preferred a simpler, less intricate style.
Larry Vrba (1970 – 1978):
Larry Vrba became head designer in 1970 and stayed until 1978. Vrba greatly admired the Haskell pieces of the past and used them for inspiration in his new designs, but he also had to keep up with changing times. He is therefore responsible for the introduction of designs which wouldn’t readily be identified as Haskell, such as all metal pieces. His most famous line and some of Haskell’s most collectible pieces, come from his Egyptian line which is packed with highly stylized jewellery in blues, reds and golds.
Camille Petronzio (1980 -):
Petronzio was head designer for about twenty years. She kept an eye on the past and liked to remake archival Haskell pieces with a modern twist.
This necklace and earring set made of Wood/Glass Beads/Gold Tone is available for sale today on the ebay store Timeless Treasures Vintage Jewelry for $3,500.
FOR MORE INFORMATION The Miriam Haskell Book
SOURCES AND RESOURCES
[1][2]Miriam Haskell, the jewelry company and the woman
Morning Glory article about Miriam Haskell 1930s-40s
Miriam Haskell Vintage Jewelry
Miriam Haskell Jewelry by Cathy Gordon, etc. on Amazon
Miriam Haskell Jewelry by Cathy Gordon, Sheila Pamfiloff on Google Books
Miriam Haskell Jewelry on Pinterest
Miriam Haskell on commonsearches