DEFINITION AND DESCRIPTION OF FLOWER POWER AND PINS
Description: ‘An affordable token, a flower shaped symbol of flower power constructed of molded steel and enamel paint that represents the socio-political mood of the mid 1960s to 1970s.’
In fact, there is such an abundance of mass produced pins that their identity remains a mystery even to this day. Specifically, there are no identifying marks, no designer names, no known countries of origin, or anything to distinguish or identify them.
Actually, the definition of flower power itself is almost as undocumented as the origin of the flower power pins themselves. In fact this post can do little more than gather up descriptions and anecdotes of flower power and pins.
Flower Power image above and quote to the right and below from the article in 1-800flowers.com ‘petal talk®’ written by Michelle Yastremsky
The Background “Coined in 1965 by acclaimed poet and voice of his generation Allen Ginsberg, ‘flower power’ was used to inspire a movement in which anti-war demonstrators focused on positive values such as peace and love to instead of brute force and rebellion in order to ‘fight’ for freedom.”
The Concept ‘The concept first comes into being while Ginsberg helps organize a protest against the Vietnam War in Berkeley, California.’
Ginsberg Essay ‘In his essay “Demonstration or Spectacle as Example, As Communication,” Ginsberg describes a tactic using peace as a “weapon.” He suggests “masses of flowers – a visual spectacle – especially concentrated on the front lines.”
He continues, “…marchers should bring harmonicas, flutes, recorders, guitars, banjos, and violins.” The Beatnik poet goes on to invite all previously persecuted groups to join the revolution, turning the phrase into a movement of peace, hope, unity, and above all – imagination.’
Allen Ginsberg Beatnik Poet and coiner of the term “flower power” from bluerailroad.wordpress
The History of Flower Power by Michelle Yastremsky
“The ‘Flower’ in flower power
Quoting from Michelle Yastremsky “The hippies of the 1960s and 1970s take Ginsberg’s message of peaceful protesting and incorporate it into their fashions and culture. Both men and women wear flowers from on their clothing to in their hair.
“Flowers in their hair range from floral head wreaths to slipping a single a dandelion into their groovy headbands (a trend that has resurfaced in fashion today). Bright, floral prints become extremely popular as do floral inspired patches.
“Some hippies even paint the flower symbol on their faces to show their support and dedication to the cause. With its natural and simplistic beauty, it’s not surprising that the flower becomes the ultimate symbol of peace and love for this counterculture and era!”
How Flower Power Worked PREV NEXT By: Cristen Conger
“Although Ginsberg’s essay doesn’t use the exact phrase “flower power,” he was the first to expound on the potency of flowers as “a visual spectacle” to simultaneously disarm opponents and influence thought.”
Vintage Jewelry Design ‘Classics to Collect and Wear by Caroline Cox
Vintage Jewel Design, Classics to collect and wear Vintage jewelry design classics to collect and wear by Caroline Cox published by Lark Jewelry & Beading, pg.139[/caption]
LarkCrafts.com
An Imprint of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.
387 Park Avenue South, NYC, NY 10016
Flower power pin styles blossom in anonymous abundance just as wildflowers bloom in nature in all their colorful splendor.
Neither identification nor documentation exist for flower power pin styles in all their varieties before their huge popularity, during their craze in the 1960s and 70s, or even today as collectibles.
Therefore the opportunity continues to exist for a collector like myself to attempt to identify and provide a clear definition of them now in 2024. Let’s start with the components that qualify a 1960s-1970s brooch for flower power pin recognition.
CLASSIC FLOWER POWER PIN COMPONENTS
Here are the basic flower power pin components:
a. each component is molded steel
b. each component color(s) is enamel paint
c. there are usually one or two layers of petals (sometimes three even four) that are symmetrical on each layer
d. the front of the pin looks like a daisy
e. the center is also molded steel with a color of enamel paint
f. stems are also steel with enamel paint
g. the back of the pin component that holds it all together is a continuous screw in mechanism also made of metal
h. a center ‘button’ made of the same material but not necessarily the same color
The four images above illustrate the components of flower power pins
CLASSIC FLOWER POWER PIN STYLES
The following are all symmetrical daisy petal pins. Small pins have one layer of petals. Next, medium pins can have two layers of petal. Last, large pins can have three and even four layers of petals:
a. small (@1 1/2″ diameter)
b. small with stem (@ 3″ long)
c. medium (@2 1/2″ diameter)
d. medium with stem (@ 3 3/4″ long)
e. large (3″ diameter)
f. large with stem (unknown)
Flower power pin styles with sizes listed in text
MY CONCLUSION
The FPP that I have described and illustrated here are what I consider to be the original classic FPP templates and designs. There are many other styles in addition that are shown below. I suspect they are from other companies. Since I know of no contrary documentation, I conclude my study as such.
DERIVATIVE COMPONENTS AND STYLES OF FLOWER PINS
The following are what I call derivative flower pins. They do not fit the parameter of either of the first two sets of illustrations. But they loosely fit the idea but not the classic definition of a flower power pin style.
The above FPP styles all found on ebay are what i consider derivatives not classic FPP
MORE DISCUSSION ABOUT FLOWER POWER/FLOWER POWER PINS
Lenore Dame Metal Flower Brooch in Gold & Violet – One-of-a-Kind Jewelry but not a flower power pin due to the embellishments of gold and stones in the center of it.
This magnificent brooch from around the time of Flower Power Jewelry is Not A Flower Power Pin.
The reason is that it has gold filigree, decorative stones and is a one of a kind piece. So it is derivative of this jewelry not a flower power pin.
Decorative Vintage Pin This is a vintage upscale design inspired by the very popular actual flower power pin from around the 1960s. But it is a piece of jewelry from The Lenore Dame Studio using some of the basic FPP elements but for profit and decoration rather than a socio-political statement.
What is a Flower Power Pin The official description of a flower power pin (or FPP for short) is that it has a daisy pattern made from “molded steel and colored with enamel paint” exclusively. So anything else would not be an official FPP even if it looks similar to it. In fact a major distinction is that a FPP never has a designers identity and is not one-of-a-kind. Here are some examples.
These four Flower-Power-Brooches differ in daisy colors and number of petal layers only. The stem is not a distraction from their design. They have all but only the elements to qualify them as flower power pins.
What is Not a Flower Power Pin A daisy design pattern that has more than just molded steel and sprayed enamel is not official FPP although many are categorized as such today. If a piece has a matching pair of earring, its status is also questionable. Lastly, if a piece has a designer name on it, it can not be FPP. It is jewelry and its purpose is decorative. Here are some additional examples.
There are similarities between the two groups of pins. But the second group is derivative of the first. The style attempts to be similar. But that is as far as it goes. There are gemstones, gold veneer, signed by the designer, and are much more costly than flower power pins.
Why Is the Distinction So Important?
As explained in the previous blog post, The Flower Power Mystery, flower power pins are more important socially than artistically. This is not to say that they are not adorable, colorful, and collectible. But at the height of their existence, they are making a socio-political statement rather than being just decorative.
A Second Thought on Anonymity The fact that the flower power pins had no identifying marks and that nothing is written about their origin may have a very simple explanation. Companies may not have minded manufacturing them. But perhaps they did not want the public to know what their socio-political positions were. To avoid that, they remained anonymous in every way they could.
Flower Power by Definition Actually the term ‘flower power’ was coined by beatnik poet Allen Ginsberg, to symbolize peace, love, and non-violence. Keep in mind that their popularity is during the Vietnam War era. Therefore a FPP represents the anti-Vietnam War sentiment that many young people of that time feel. Instead of being just a pretty piece of jewelry, an official FPP makes a socio-political statement that is recognizable even today.
This two-layer flower power brooch is two tones of blue with a green stem and two green leaves sold by Hey Viv! on ebay.
Flower power pins are one of my favorite kinds of vintage costume collectibles. But it is only recently that I have become familiar enough with flower power pins to realize that they holds a mystery.
Motivation My desire to become knowledgeable about these very popular flower power pins of the 1960s and 1970s led me to discover that there is a flower power mystery.
The Mystery Strange as it seems and in contrast to the genre of other alternative fashion materials, no identifying information about these very popular collectibles from the 1950s and 60s seems to exist. Therefore this leads me to a conclusion about them that relies on a few clues but mostly amounts to educated guesses.
Undocumented There is very little if anything written about either the history of flower power pins, their origins, where they were made, their manufacturers, or retailers.
Documented In fact, this is in contrast with other very popular vintage costume jewelry. It includes as well the alternative material accessories vintage lucite handbags explosion. Both are extremely well documented naming designers, manufacturers, and retailers.
Flower Power Slogan from Wikipedia
History, Manufacturers, and Retailers
Clues to Identification As a matter of fact, in researching what seems like hundreds of brooches and pairs of earrings first on Pinterest, Google or Yahoo and then on Ebay or Etsy, I find only a clue or two. Within the volume of jewelry on display, there is some singularity of designs and then in contrast some diversity.
Singularity To be specific, many of the daisy petal designs differ either in color only or slightly in design if the design varies at all. Actually these hint at a singularity or similarity between brooch and earring set designs.
Diversity On the other hand, I find brooch and earring designs that are unrelated to other design sets. What this means is that some of this jewelry has no singular grouping or consistent design like the daisy petal layer designs do. In fact those sets seem like strangers to each other.
The Daisy Enamel Metal Brooch and Earrings
Vintage Mod Retro 1960s one-layer Metal Enamel White Daisy Pin Brooch with stem
Observation of this jewelry indicates that the most popular theme builds upon the basic one layer ‘daisy’ pattern. From this observation, certain conclusions might be drawn.
The Daisy Pattern Design Theme Actually what I observe about and call the original daisy pattern design theme is that there is a variety of designs built upon just a simple one layer daisy pattern theme.
Variations From that design theme come stems, stems with leaves, no stems, pin backs and earring backs. In fact the greatest variety comes from the numbers of layers of daisy petals and whether or not they have holes in them.
One Layer Daisy Pins and Earrings To illustrate what I hypothesize above are examples of one-layer daisy pins and clip-on earrings below. They all have the same flower design pattern.
Different Colors Only the colors are different. In addition removal of the stem to create clip on earrings does not effect the basic design. Therefore they could all easily be mass produced by the same company. Pattern for one layer brooches and earrings are the same. Only the backing is changed to convert the brooch into clip on earrings.Shown here are clip earrings with closed backs, a pin with a closed back, and clip earrings with the backs open
Singular Designs of Layered Brooch and Earring Designs I want to continue describing the jewelry that appears to have order and singularity. To build upon the basic one-layer flower petal version, there can be two, three and even four layer brooches. Although they can become quite ornate, there is still an order to them as each layer is added. This is evident in the images below.
These three Flower-Power-Brooches differ only in colors. The design templates seem to be identical.At first glance these three layer daisy pins may seem completely different. But on closer inspection, essentially it is only the colors that differ. The designs are essentially the same.
Does the Same Pattern Design Mean They Are From the Same Company
Is it possible that brooches and earrings that vary only minimally such as color or the design variations (description above) are from the same company? In addition, can one conclude that brooches and earrings that vary significantly in design and patterns are from different companies?
Diverse or Unique Designs In contrast to brooch and earring designs that have similarity to them, there are brooches that seem to be unique without any relatives so to speak. Unlike the jewelry that seems to have a growing number of layers as their major difference, this other jewelry is diverse or one of a kind.
These three pins bear nothing in common other than the fact that they have a daisy design pattern.
Different Patterns and Templates Might Mean Different Companies
On the other hand, such one and two layer brooches are unique in both pattern and coloring. They do not have the continuum in design theme that the continuous layer jewelry described above displays.
Guess Again Where there is singularity in those, there is diversity in these other designs. Therefore the possibility might be that they are from different companies.
Still A Mystery
Why is there no identification of Flower Power Jewelry like fashion accessories from this period? In other words, who designed it as well as what company manufactured and sold it? Instead much literature does exist about the flower power era culturally. But that is as far as it goes.
Sort of a Hint Other vintage costume jewelry companies did offer credit on their products. In fact this is before during and after the Flower Power rage. But these other brands tend to be more pricey and decorative with rhinestone and other embellishments on them. For example, these companies include Marvella, Trifari, Sarah Coventry, Albert Weiss, Monet, Lisner, Coro, Napier, Lenora Dame, and Vendome.
Flower Power Jewelry and the flower power era described by Beatnik poet, Allen Ginsberg
A Possible Answer As I point out, since there is very little written about enamel metal brooches and earrings themselves with no identifying documentation at all, one has to surmise what the reason is for the anonymity of the Flower Power Jewelry. The closest thing to an answer lies in the ten other brands of vintage costume jewelry listed above that are from before, during, and after the Flower Power era because they are not definitively ‘flower Power’ jewelry.
Conclusion Thinking along the lines of the sheer volume of flower power pins produced (not one-of-a-kind), their minimal price (they were cheap), and their purpose did not warrant identifying them individually or artistically.
It is as if they were not created as ‘jewelry’ but rather more like flower ‘badges’ mass produced cheaply in Asia (?) with a socio-political more than artistic intention. This is my conclusion. In conversation with another collector, a seller and the owner of HeyViv!, she tends to concur with this conclusion. What do you think?
Traditional stainless steel Celtic knot Kladdagh ring from faire.com
Vintage costume jewelry has always been my preference over precious and even semi-precious stone jewelry.
For example, I am not a fan of the diamond engagement ring. In addition whenever family jewelry needed dividing between siblings, an ordeal followed.
Therefore, I am perfectly happy with what I collect now. In fact, I prefer to make my purchases from the second vintage category for very reasonable prices.
VINTAGE COSTUME JEWELRY
Most recently I am being creative with a project called ‘The Be Jeweled Collection of Handbags and Accessories’. As part of this project, I am making use of collectible handbags and vintage jewelry. At last I have a way for these things to stop gathering dust. They also are looking rather artistic while still wearable.
English Bone ChinaOrange Laura Ashley straw bag with bone chine brooch decor
I am also learning about various categories of vintage costume jewelry. A very popular vintage category is English bone china brooches.
Since they are so delicate, they tend to have small chips on them. Due to that I do not mind using them as decor on handbags rather than as brooches. Learn more about the history of bone china brooches at this link.
English bone china brooch by Stafforshire (top row second from left belowEnglish bone china brooches from Yahoo
Enameled Metal Another very popular combination of materials is enameled metal or molded steel with enamel paint. The technique and the look are very different from bone china. There is a simplicity and affordability to this jewelry that contrasts previous conservative ornate styles. Most enamel metal brooches are based on a daisy but in very bright, simple colors.(2)
In fact this generation of jewelry is termed ‘flower power’ by beatnick Allen Ginsberg. Designer Mary Quant is the poster girl for this period. Most impressive is the artwork by Andy Warhowl that represents this period, the 1960s. Besides these details there is no documentation of the period’s majority of designers or manufacturers.(1) Instead, as a reference one seller describes them in the following way.
Retro vibrant enameled floral brooch popular in the mid 1900’s is available on ebay.Vibrant colored enamel metal brooches is from mid 1900’s and available on ebay
More about Vintage Costume Jewelry
A simple and very typical enameled metal brooch festoons a light green purse, designer unnamed
At left is an example of an enamel metal brooch on a purse from an unnamed designer.
In fact, this daisy brooch is one of the most popular designs made. It is available in all kinds of color combinations and can be purchased at ebay online(2).
Next are examples of Russian folk art known as Palekh lacquer miniatures. The top one is a rectangular box. Another is a round box. The third is a brooch. Note that the larger box and the brooch are signed and in excellent condition(3).
Below is a purse with a single Russian pin for focus and emphasis.
Handbag with Russian Lacquer PinContrast and complement are shown here of a Stuart Weitzman(4) purse with a lacquered pin
