Alternative fashion materials become wildly popular during the 20th century. Their zenith is the 1950s, when lucite handbags become the most trendy.
The reason primarily is that some materials have a commercial restriction during WWII. Therein lies the opportunity and even necessity to find alternative materials for the public. Because of various challenges including the one regarding WWII restriction, new materials enter the fashion scene.
First is celluloid, then bakelite. Afterwards bakelite evolves into lucite. In other words, each alternative material is an important improvement over the previous one. Today all these alternative materials exist as extremely collectible.
Examples of cellulose, bakelite and acrylic as alternative material jewelry and accessories
CELLULOID
Celluloid Jewelry The use of alternative fashion materials begins with the invention of celluloid. It actually starts as a trade name for a type of plastic invented in the mid-1800s. Over time this becomes the generic term. The material’s use is to produce many different kinds of items, including jewelry.
From the early 1900s through about 1940, a primary use for celluloid is jewelry production. In fact it is used especially as a substitute for tortoise shell and ivory. Unfortunately it is unstable and not an optimal alternative.
Cellulose Definition Cellulose definition from thoughco.com
Cellulose Jewelry Samples and History John Wesley Hyatt is the inventor of celluloid. He patents it in 1869. From the early 1900s through about 1940, celluloid is a frequent substitute in jewelry production. Its range is from bangle bracelets with rhinestone decoration, hair combs resembling tortoise shell, and chains used to hold charms made of Bakelite. One main issue with celluloid, however, is its flammable nature. As other plastics develop, fewer and fewer pieces of jewelry are made of celluloid.
BAKELITE
Bakelite is the next of the alternative fashion materials. Definition of bakeliteBakelite bangles available on etsy.com
Examples of Bakelite Jewelry Examples from cheaper99.com of Bakelite jewelry
LUCITE
Difference between lucite and acrylic by acme plastic.com
History of Lucite Handbags In the late 1940s, a new plastic, Lucite comes onto the scene big time. Its designs are not anonymous, but there are lucite purses by noted designers such as Rialto, Llewellyn, Patricia of Miami, Wilardy, Miami Handbags, and Myles Originals. Actually, they sell in for as little as $5 but also go up to $75. In fact, Hollywood stars are among the first to festoon these unusual bags.
Marilyn Monroe is adorned by the latest lucite in the film, Niagara.
For a detailed display of lucite handbags, go to the blog post 1950s Lucite Handbags Examples of Lucite handbags 1950s
THERMOPLASTIC
Two Generations of Outrageous Alternative Material Handbags From out of no where, and even the company employees don’t know when it came to be the Furla Brand Jelly Bag. Like nothing that came before it, and one resurrection since, this is one of my all time favorite handbags. Believed to be birthed in the third quarter of the 20th century, this Yellow school bag is a knockout.
Furla Jelly Bag In fact, Aldo’s daughter Giovanna gets the credit for the invention of the original jelly bag. Then there is a second generation, the re•candy bag.
Furla Re•candy Bag The Furla Re•candy Bag is currently one of the hottest fashion statements amongst young and Gen z women. In addition, this new Re•candy is totally recyclable. This is all due to the fact that this fine leatherware company has also a growing focus on recyclability and sustainability.
Most noteworthy are those designed for Women’s Fashion Week SS22 in Milan. This Furla Candy is a mini satchel bag made of recycled thermoplastic polyurethane gathered and restored using previously-produced materials. Furla-Re•candy exhibit at the 2022 Milan Fashion Week featured in a Town & Country article, photo courtesy of Furla.
ENAMEL METAL
I am a huge fan of what comes to be known as ‘flower power’. This is a jewelry type and lifestyle with acknowledgement by celebrities like Alan Ginsberg, Andy Warhol, and Mary Quant. Flower power, enamel metal contrasts traditional high end jewelry and chic lifestyles.
Just purchased, some flower power for me. Two pins, one with matching earrings. In fact jewelry is made using inexpensive metal, without any semi-precious or precious stones. None the less, the designs and colors are outstanding and simple. They are as popular today as when they represented the mood of the day and the philosophy of their time.
Traditional stainless steel Celtic knot Kladdagh ring from faire.com
Vintage costume jewelry has always been my preference over precious and even semi-precious stone jewelry.
For example, I am not a fan of the diamond engagement ring. In addition whenever family jewelry needed dividing between siblings, an ordeal followed.
Therefore, I am perfectly happy with what I collect now. In fact, I prefer to make my purchases from the second vintage category for very reasonable prices.
VINTAGE COSTUME JEWELRY
Most recently I am being creative with a project called ‘The Be Jeweled Collection of Handbags and Accessories’. As part of this project, I am making use of collectible handbags and vintage jewelry. At last I have a way for these things to stop gathering dust. They also are looking rather artistic while still wearable.
English Bone ChinaOrange Laura Ashley straw bag with bone chine brooch decor
I am also learning about various categories of vintage costume jewelry. A very popular vintage category is English bone china brooches.
Since they are so delicate, they tend to have small chips on them. Due to that I do not mind using them as decor on handbags rather than as brooches. Learn more about the history of bone china brooches at this link.
English bone china brooch by Stafforshire (top row second from left belowEnglish bone china brooches from Yahoo
Enameled Metal Another very popular combination of materials is enameled metal or molded steel with enamel paint. The technique and the look are very different from bone china. There is a simplicity and affordability to this jewelry that contrasts previous conservative ornate styles. Most enamel metal brooches are based on a daisy but in very bright, simple colors.(2)
In fact this generation of jewelry is termed ‘flower power’ by beatnick Allen Ginsberg. Designer Mary Quant is the poster girl for this period. Most impressive is the artwork by Andy Warhowl that represents this period, the 1960s. Besides these details there is no documentation of the period’s majority of designers or manufacturers.(1) Instead, as a reference one seller describes them in the following way.
Retro vibrant enameled floral brooch popular in the mid 1900’s is available on ebay.Vibrant colored enamel metal brooches is from mid 1900’s and available on ebay
More about Vintage Costume Jewelry
A simple and very typical enameled metal brooch festoons a light green purse, designer unnamed
At left is an example of an enamel metal brooch on a purse from an unnamed designer.
In fact, this daisy brooch is one of the most popular designs made. It is available in all kinds of color combinations and can be purchased at ebay online(2).
Next are examples of Russian folk art known as Palekh lacquer miniatures. The top one is a rectangular box. Another is a round box. The third is a brooch. Note that the larger box and the brooch are signed and in excellent condition(3).
Below is a purse with a single Russian pin for focus and emphasis.
Handbag with Russian Lacquer PinContrast and complement are shown here of a Stuart Weitzman(4) purse with a lacquered pin
