Hattie Carnegie Dynel Flower Pins



Red Dynel jewelry sets photo courtesy of the owner Marian Stolar Patin member of the Vintage Enamel Flower Pins/Brooches Facebook Group
Hattie Carnegie Dynel flower pins and earring sets rank amongst the most unique and expensive 'flower pin' costume jewelry in existence.

Although the vast majority of Hattie Carnegie jewelry is made from metal and even semi-precious stones, the limited Dynel pieces are particularly fascinating and desirable to me.

Therefore this blog post focuses on the Dynel pieces exclusively. Blog posts featuring her metal and stone jewelry are a separate topic and will be written at another time.

Why Hattie Used Dynel So far, I have not found any documentation explaining why her company introduced this particular material. No other jewelry company did to my knowledge. In addition, there is no other accessories company that used Dynel in their jewelry designs. But it was used for other purposes explained below.

Yellow Dynel jewelry photo courtesy of the owner Marian Stolar Patin member of the Vintage Enamel Flower Pins/Brooches Facebook Group
WHAT IS DYNEL?
"Dynel is a trademarked synthetic fiber made from vinyl chloride and acrylonitrile.

Properties: "Dynel is known for being resistant to burning, abrasion, and chemicals. It's also strong, dries quickly, and is easily dyed.
Uses: "Dynel was used in many applications, which are listed below.
Textiles: "Dynel was used to make knitted and woven fabrics for clothing and home furnishings.
Wigs and fake fur: "Dynel was used to make wigs, doll hair, and fake fur.
Marine applications: "Dynel was used in fiber reinforced plastic composite materials, especially for marine applications.

HISTORY OF DYNEL
"Dynel was first introduced in 1951 by the Union Carbide corporation. Its production has since been discontinued." Google

Red Dynel jewelry sets photo courtesy of the owner Marian Stolar Patin member of the Vintage Enamel Flower Pins/Brooches Facebook Group
Hattie Carnegie's history is fascinating. First of all, she was born Henrietta Kanengeiser in Austria. After she arrived in the United States, she went into business in her 20s. She consequently adopted the name Carnegie to be associated with the wealthiest man in the US at that time, Andrew Carnegie.

The name 'Hattie' stuck as her nickname from when she worked in the hat department at Macy's. Eventually the young Henrietta Kanengeiser who emigrated to the United States around 1900 became the very successful women's fashion icon, Hattie Carnegie some decades later.

 

1960s HATTIE CARNEGIE Dynel Blue Green Enamel Flower Brooch &
Clip On Earrings
1960s HATTIE CARNEGIE Dynel Blue Green Enamel Flower Brooch, Courtesy of "Caressa's Vintage Treasures", eBay ID "vintagetreasures"

SOURCES AND RESOURCES
This link, Hattie Carnegie History, connects to Exquisite Vintage Jewels. Her biography can be found there. The foundation of this post can be found on this Google link. More about Dynel can be found on this Wikipedia link.

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VINTAGE COSTUME FLOWER PINS


My purpose in writing this flower pins blog post is to introduce my system of documentation and identification to everyone interested in flower pins. In table format below, this charting is called VINTAGE COSTUME FLOWER PINS.

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The Vintage Costume Flower Pin Chart ©2024 designed by Alison D. Gilbert and Illustrated by Phil Jacobs

NO PREVIOUS DOCUMENTATION
Previously there was no existing, consistent written documentation until now for the entire genre of these wonderful collectibles (flower power pins). As a result for the first time in history, this system can at long last provide a universal language for just about every (vintage costume jewelry) 'flower pin' ever made.

CONSISTENT FORM OF IDENTIFICATION
In providing this system for admirers, collectors, and sellers alike, a consistent form of identifying flower pins for the entire genre of vintage costume flower pins is now available.

In other words, the results of my extensive research has resulted in a system to identify and classify (just about every) vintage costume flower pin ever made. This following explains how my system works.

HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS
The structure of this system consists of two divisions, as well as 6 + 4 (and more) categories. In addition this post includes definitions, descriptions, and photos where available. The table above charts the structure of this system to provide a visual description.

BRIEF SYSTEM SUMMARY
To summarize in verbal terms, there are two divisions of vintage costume flower pins created primarily around the second half of the 20th century, i.e. DIVISION ONE (anonymous) and DIVISION TWO (identified). Within the Division One categories, there are six categories and many more possibilities within the Division Two categories.

DIVISIONS
Two divisions provide a contextual umbrella for the entire topic of 'flower pins'. But only DIVISION ONE pins make up the SIX CATEGORIES of anonymous 'flower power pins'. They are:

#5-3D daisies
from Southwest Picks on ebay
A. FLOWER POWER PINS-The six categories of 'flower power pins' defined and categorized below.

FLOWER POWER PINS Anonymous flower pins made of molded metal decorated in bright enamel colors made primarily in the 1960s and 1970s.
1. Original/classic
2. Derivative/
3. Embellished
4. POP Art
5. 3D/global
6. Multi-flower

DESCRIPTIONS AND PHOTOS OF EACH CATEGORY

1. Original/classic-one and two layer daisy flower petals pins with same material center with or without stem
flower pin varieties

2. Derivatives-amorphous metal petal/layers pins

derivative pins
Single layer derivative flower pins

polka dot pins
A collection of six polka dot derivative pins

3. Embellished-several metal daisy layer pins with another shape layer and a center of another material or color

4L-6-display
A collection of 6 embellished flower pins

4. POP Art-amorphous shape pins
No samples available at this time.

5. 3D Three Dimensional/Global

#5 orange
This is a 3 dimensional Orange Flower Brooch pin

6. Multi-flower Flower pin

multi-flower
A multi flower power pin available on etsy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

B. FLOWER PINS OR BROOCHES-Identified/signed flower pins made primarily of metal, enamel paint, rhinestones or Swarovski crystals, and synthetic fiber.

1. Samples from the Collections of Lenora Dame.

Lenora Dame pins
A collection of early Lenora Dame flower pins.

Flower Pins or Brooches-Identified/designer flower pins made of metal, enamel paint, and rhinestone or Swarofski crystals stones.

2. Samples from the Collections of Liz Palacios

Liz-Palacios-pins
A group of three magnificent Liz Palacios brooches.

More Flower Pins or Brooches-Identified/designer flower pins made of metal, wood, or Dynel (a synthetic material), enamel paint or dye, and even rhinestone.

3. Miriam Haskell

MH-wooden acorn pin
MIRIAM HASKELL Hess natural & dyed wooden bead acorns pin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. Hattie Carnegie (Examples are not available at this time).

5. Many Other Jewelers

TO SUM THINGS UP
There are two major divisions of flower pins. Division One include six flower power pin categories listed immediately below.

A. Anonymous-flower power pins
1. Original/classic
2. Derivative
3. Embellished
4. POP Art
5. 3D
6. Multi-flower

There is an limitless number of flower pins/jewelers who are listed below that.

B. Identified/signed-flower pins or brooches
1. Lenora Dame
2. Liz Palacios
3. Miriam Haskell
4. Many Other Jewelers

SOURCES AND RESOURCES
Not A Flower Power Pin
Swarovski Crystals
Flower Pin Creation
Hattie Carnegie Pins


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The Lenora Dame Jewelry Studio

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Lenora-Dame-Studio
A derivative of a flower power pin from the Lenora Dame Studio. The inner layer of this brooch is actually an original flower power pin.

When I first saw this pin I thought it was a four layer flower power pin. In fact, looking closely, I am sure the top yellow daisy pin layer is an authentic flower power pin.

But there are several aspects that disqualify the sum total of layers from being an original socio-political statement.

In other words it is NOT an authentic flower power pin. It is a piece of jewelry, even a work of art. But more about that to come later in this blog post.

Lenora Dame NFP brooches
This is a collection of Lenora Dame brooches all in the style of flower power pins.

HISTORY

‘The first seeds of this company are planted when Lenora gives up her thriving career as an advertising executive to focus full time on designing jewelry using her personal button collection.’ Note that she also uses a flower power pin as a layer.’ Her sister, Alison Dame, soon takes business operations in hand, and in 2001 Dame Design, LLC and a full accessories collection is born.’

Description “Noted especially for her iconic “haute bohemian” collections of necklaces, earrings and bracelets, designer Lenora Dame has set herself apart with a fearless approach that genetically recombines . . . ” Yahoo.com

Influences There are many creative influences to this jewelry. To understand the group of brooches featured here, visit these two blogpost, Not A Flower Power Pin and Flower Power Pin Mystery.

LENORA DAME BROOCH DESCRIBED IN LAYERS

To me this pieces is a work of art. In this context, I wish to go into a detailed examination of it.
brooch-a-lg
A four layer Lenora Dame brooch in the style of a flower power pin but decorative not socio-political
A. The first layer has intentional holes in it and is sage green with a spray of purple

B. The second layer is copper with brush strokes of navy blue

C. The third layer is light cobalt blue

D. The fourth layer is a pin in itself composed of gold colored metal and green rhinestones

 

INSPIRATION I do believe that the jewelry at this stage of Lenora Dame’s studio career used flower power pins are her inspiration. But from this layer analysis, I will show why this brooch is not and can not be a flower power pin. It can only be and is derivative of a FPP. The reasons are that they are attributed to her and most likely signed.

Also they are either one-of-a-kind or very limited editions. Clearly some hand work has gone into these pieces rather than mass produced items. None the less they are a delightful addition to the world of vintage costume jewelry.

sage-burg-ooak
This Lenora Dame piece is also derivative of a flower power pin. It is four layers plus a gold pin with turquoise rhinestones in the center. The layers are specifically, burgundy, copper and tan, sage, gold leaves.

SOURCES AND RESOURCES

Contact the Lenora Dame Studio
Jewelry
Lenora Dame Website
Facebook
About Us
Shop
Instagram
Pinterest
Etsy
ebay

 

 

 


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The Flower Power Pins Mystery

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flower-power-mystery
This two-layer flower power brooch is two tones of blue with a green stem and two green leaves sold by Hey Viv! on ebay.

Flower power pins are one of my favorite kinds of vintage costume collectibles. But it is only recently that I have become familiar enough with flower power pins to realize that they hold a mystery.

This mystery makes these collectibles unique amongst other types of 20th century costume jewelry and alternative fashion materials that I wrote about in a previous blog post.

Motivation My desire to become knowledgeable about these very popular flower power pins of the 1960s and 1970s led me to discover that there is a flower power mystery.

The Mystery Strange as it seems and in contrast to the genre of other alternative fashion materials, no identifying information about these very popular collectibles from the 1950s and 60s seems to exist. Therefore this leads me to a conclusion about them that relies on a few clues but mostly amounts to educated guesses.

Undocumented There is very little if anything written about either the history of flower power pins, their origins, where they were made, their manufacturers, or retailers.
Documented In fact, this is in contrast with other very popular vintage costume jewelry. It includes as well the alternative material accessories vintage lucite handbags explosion. Both are extremely well documented naming designers, manufacturers, and retailers.
Flower Power Slogan
Flower Power Slogan from Wikipedia

History, Manufacturers, and Retailers

Clues to Identification As a matter of fact, in researching what seems like hundreds of brooches and pairs of earrings first on Pinterest, Google or Yahoo and then on Ebay or Etsy, I find only a clue or two. Within the volume of jewelry on display, there is some singularity of designs and then in contrast some diversity.

Singularity To be specific, many of the daisy petal designs differ either in color only or slightly in design if the design varies at all. Actually these hint at a singularity or similarity between brooch and earring set designs.

Diversity On the other hand, I find brooch and earring designs that are unrelated to other design sets. What this means is that some of this jewelry has no singular grouping or consistent design like the daisy petal layer designs do. In fact those sets seem like strangers to each other.

The Daisy Enamel Metal Brooch and Earrings

one-layer-daisy
Vintage Mod Retro 1960s one-layer Metal Enamel White Daisy Pin Brooch with stem
Observation of this jewelry indicates that the most popular theme builds upon the basic one layer ‘daisy’ pattern. From this observation, certain conclusions might be drawn.

The Daisy Pattern Design Theme Actually what I observe about and call the original daisy pattern design theme is that there is a variety of designs built upon just a simple one layer daisy pattern theme.

Variations From that design theme come stems, stems with leaves, no stems, pin backs and earring backs. In fact the greatest variety comes from the numbers of layers of daisy petals and whether or not they have holes in them.

One Layer Daisy Pins and Earrings To illustrate what I hypothesize above are examples of one-layer daisy pins and clip-on earrings below. They all have the same flower design pattern.

Different Colors Only the colors are different. In addition removal of the stem to create clip on earrings does not effect the basic design. Therefore they could all easily be mass produced by the same company.
one-layer-pin-earrings
Pattern for one layer brooches and earrings are the same. Only the backing is changed to convert the brooch into clip on earrings.

pin and earring backs
Shown here are clip earrings with closed backs, a pin with a closed back, and clip earrings with the backs open
Singular Designs of Layered Brooch and Earring Designs I want to continue describing the jewelry that appears to have order and singularity. To build upon the basic one-layer flower petal version, there can be two, three and even four layer brooches. Although they can become quite ornate, there is still an order to them as each layer is added. This is evident in the images below.

2-layer-3-pins
These three Flower-Power-Brooches differ only in colors. The design templates seem to be identical.
2L-3L multi
At first glance these three layer daisy pins may seem completely different. But on closer inspection, essentially it is only the colors that differ. The designs are essentially the same.

Does the Same Pattern Design Mean They Are From the Same Company

Is it possible that brooches and earrings that vary only minimally such as color or the design variations (description above) are from the same company? In addition, can one conclude that brooches and earrings that vary significantly in design and patterns are from different companies?

Diverse or Unique Designs In contrast to brooch and earring designs that have similarity to them, there are brooches that seem to be unique without any relatives so to speak. Unlike the jewelry that seems to have a growing number of layers as their major difference, this other jewelry is diverse or one of a kind.
diversity-pins
These three pins bear nothing in common other than the fact that they have a daisy design pattern.

Different Patterns and Templates Might Mean Different Companies

On the other hand, such one and two layer brooches are unique in both pattern and coloring. They do not have the continuum in design theme that the continuous layer jewelry described above displays.
Guess Again Where there is singularity in those, there is diversity in these other designs. Therefore the possibility might be that they are from different companies.
Still A Mystery
Why is there no identification of Flower Power Jewelry like fashion accessories from this period? In other words, who designed it as well as what company manufactured and sold it? Instead much literature does exist about the flower power era culturally. But that is as far as it goes.

Sort of a Hint Other vintage costume jewelry companies did offer credit on their products. In fact this is before during and after the Flower Power rage. But these other brands tend to be more pricey and decorative with rhinestone and other embellishments on them. For example, these companies include Marvella, Trifari, Sarah Coventry, Albert Weiss, Monet, Lisner, Coro, Napier, Lenora Dame, and Vendome.

Allen Ginsberg
Flower Power Jewelry and the flower power era described by Beatnik poet, Allen Ginsberg
A Possible Answer As I point out, since there is very little written about enamel metal brooches and earrings themselves with no identifying documentation at all, one has to surmise what the reason is for the anonymity of the Flower Power Jewelry. The closest thing to an answer lies in the ten other brands of vintage costume jewelry listed above that are from before, during, and after the Flower Power era because they are not definitively ‘flower Power’ jewelry.

Conclusion Thinking along the lines of the sheer volume of flower power pins produced (not one-of-a-kind), their minimal price (they were cheap), and their purpose did not warrant identifying them individually or artistically.

It is as if they were not created as ‘jewelry’ but rather more like flower ‘badges’ mass produced cheaply in Asia (?) with a socio-political more than artistic intention. This is my conclusion. In conversation with another collector, a seller and the owner of HeyViv!, she tends to concur with this conclusion. What do you think?

SOURCES AND RESOURCES

Morning Glory Jewelry|Flower Power 60s Enamel Jewelry
Flower Power: The 1960s Cultural Movement that Still Inspire Today
Andy Warhol’s Flower Power in Interview Magazine
The History of Enamel Pins
Collecting Vintage 1960’s Enamel Flower Power Jewelry
Flower Power Fashion: Embracing the Spirit of the 60s Hippie Movement
Ruby Lane: Vintage Begins Here
Flower Power: An Era of Movement and Empowerment
Flower Power: A Nostalgic Journey to the Peaceful Revolution of the 1960s
Floral and Plant Enamel Pins
Pansy v2 Floral Enamel Pin
Pinterest: Vintage Brooches
Vintage 1970s Enamel on Metal FLOWER POWER brooches / pins


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