flower power pins – The Research & Writings of ALISON D. GILBERT

Accessories, Fashion, The ALISON D. GILBERT Blog

The Vintage Flower Pins Identification System

December 28, 2024 No Comments

The Vintage Costume Flower Pins Identification System is composed of five components: A. pin(s) to be identified B. official identification chart (or table), C. flower pin glossaries (one for Division One and another for Division Two pins) D. blank pin identification tags E. boxes or containers for sales and personal inventory tags


THIS ORIGINAL SYSTEM

This original system was designed by me to identify and categorize vintage 'flower power pins' and 'flower pins'. It is intended for use by anyone to identify and categorize these types of pins, specifically. Actually as vintage jewelry, they were all manufactured in approximately the second half of the 20th century.
The Vintage Costume Flower Pin Chart ©2024 designed by Alison D. Gilbert and Illustrated by Phil Jacobs
B. The pin identification system chart sets up the structure for the system providing a visual description. This blog post also includes definitions, descriptions, explanations, and photos (when available). 
C1. GLOSSARY OF FLOWER POWER PINS ©2024

1. ORIGINAL/CLASSIC

2. DERIVATIVE

3. EMBELLISHED

4. POP ART

5. 3D/GLOBAL

6. MULTI-FLOWER
IDENTIFICATION SYSTEM: DIVISION ONE

Early #1 original one daisy petal layer flower pins

Two examples of #2 Derivative pins
THE PURPOSE OF THE CHART AND GLOSSARY

This chart and glossary clearly provide a universal language for anyone interested in identifying and categorizing 'flower power pins' and 'flower pins'. 
This includes pins designed in roughly the second half of the 20th century. One simply needs to look at the above chart and glossary to identify a flower power pin. This is indeed extraordinary and long over due.
A collection of six #3 embellished flower power pins
NO PREVIOUS DOCUMENTATION

Previously there was no existing, consistent written documentation until now for the entire genre of these wonderful collectibles (flower power pins). 
As a result for the first time in history, this system can at long last provide a universal language for just about every (vintage costume jewelry) 'flower pin' ever made. I hope that this is a great relief and huge help to those who love these pins as much as I do. 
CONSISTENT FORM OF IDENTIFICATION

In providing this system for admirers, collectors, and sellers alike, a consistent form of identifying flower pins for the entire genre of vintage costume flower pins is now available. 
In other words, the results of my extensive research has resulted in a system to identify and classify (just about any) vintage costume flower pin made around the second half of the 20th century. This is how my system works.
 
A #5 3D pin from Southwest Picks from ebay
HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS

First of all, the structure of this system consists of two divisions. Then there are Subdivisions A through Z under the DIVISION TWO pins. Then there are also six categories in DIVISION TWO. 
To summarize in verbal terms, there are two divisions of vintage costume flower pins created primarily around the second half of the 20th century, i.e. DIVISION ONE (anonymous) and DIVISION TWO (identified). Within the Division One subdivision, there are six categories. Refer to the chart at the top of this post for clarification.
A #6 lavender multi flower pin available on etsy
MOVING ON

The two divisions provide a contextual umbrella for the entire genre of 'flower power pins' and 'flower pins' that were manufactured during approximately the second half of the 20th century. Although no one has yet been able to identify where Division One pins came from or who made the, there is much more information about the Division Two Pins.

So after a brief introduction, we will now delve into Division Two Pins. 
 
DIVISION TWO FLOWER PINS

Within the Division Two categories, there are so many possibilities. In fact, they actually fit into a total of 26 subdivisions of A through Z, each one for the possible name of a designer and/or company).
C2.GLOSSARY OF FLOWER PINS ©2024

1. OTHER MATERIAL

2. DERIVATIVE

3. EMBELLISHED

4. POP ART

5. 3D/GLOBAL

6. MULTI-FLOWER
CATEGORIES

After alphabetizing, similar categories to DIVISION ONE can then be applied that further identify the DIVISION TWO pins as well. The only exception is Category #1. That is because it differs in each division. 
Specifically, in DIVISION ONE, #1 represents the original basic single layer daisy petal pin. In DIVISION TWO, #1 represents other material besides metal as the flower base like the Hattie Carnegie Dynel pins.
Dynel is a synthetic material that had a brief life used for a number of items some wearable and some not. But for some reason, Hattie decided to use this material in her pin designs. They must have been very popular because the ones that survive today command a fortune for costume jewelry.
 
Magnificent identified Lis Palacios embellished flower pin.
DIVISION TWO EXAMPLE

Keep in mind that any pin that can be identified by a brand, symbol, initials, or other means of signature belongs in DIVISION TWO. Here is an example of such a pin and the coding that identifies it. D2/Palacios/#1, #3-Gold/brown
In other words, it is a D2 or Division Two, the designer is Liz Palacios, the categories from the Division Two glossary are #1 other material(s), and #3 embellished. Lastly the pin is gold and brown.
JEWELRY IDENTIFICATION MARKS

Finally here are some marks that actually identify the pins right on the back of them. Therefore they are all Division Two. 
A Liz Palacios of San Francisco mark that might appear on a  brooch like the one above.

A variety of Hattie Carnegie marks which identify her as the manufacturer and may also date the jewelry
 
 
 
 
 
The pin identification tag for all your pin information ©2024
 D. THE PIN IDENTIFICATION TAG Here is something special to help keep track of all your pin inventory. 
It is a pin identification tag that I am including as part of this system to add extra help in the organizational process. 
In fact, the pin identification tag provides a handy way to keep track of all the necessary information either for sale purposes or your own collection inventory. You can 'screen grab' it, download, and print it out.
 
 
a suggested pin tag box available on Amazon
 E. A PIN IDENTIFICATION BOX For keeping track of sales and inventory, I would organize pin identification tags like cards in a recipe box. This idea comes from my days as a cook. 
Actually, it was a great way to organize and keep track of recipes. In this case, I would use separate boxes for each purpose. 
Specifically for you own inventory, I would have UP TO 26 dividers (one for each letter of the alphabet). For keeping track of sales, I hope you can be more creative than I can think of to organize the tags how they work best for you. 
Either way, this is an integral part of the system. Wishing you the best with this novel system. Let me know if you have any questions or comments. Happy collecting!
CREDIT FOR MATERIALSMaterials that I have created are available for use by everyone. Please include the copyright information when printing, i.e. ©2024 designed by Alison D. Gilbert and Illustrated by Phil Jacobs
SOURCES & RESOURCES

Liz Palacios Vintage Costume Jewelry

Vintage Costume Jewelry Designer Marks Examples

Collecting Hattie Carnegie and examples of signature

A box to store and organize pin identification tags

The Use of Dynel

Dynel flower pins



			
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						Accessories, Fashion, The ALISON D. GILBERT Blog					
				
			
			
				Beyond Flower Power Pins
			

							
					November 12, 2024
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This Lenora Dame brooch and the Liz Palacios brooch look a lot like each other. Owned by author.

At this point, we can only go forward beyond flower power pins. If a pin design is marked and identifiable, it qualifies as beyond a flower power pin. Past blog posts have identified them. For example the Lenora Dame Studio, early brooch qualifies as such. 

And now I have discovered Liz Palacios of San Francisco and pins that also qualify. They are below.
This is a sample of a Liz Palacios pin. It looks very similar to both a Flower Power Pin and the Lenora Dame pin below. Owned by author.
This is the first pin by Liz Palacios I found that is similar to a flower power pin. In fact, it does look very much like an early Lenora Dame brooch.
Similarities and Differences These two magnificent brooches have both strong similarities and some differences. Both are similar to flower power pins with their daisy pattern. They are decorated in lustrous bright colors with a jewel center.
The former has three layers of petals. The latter has two. There are no holes in the Palacios petals. But there are in the Lenora Dame first layer of petals. In fact these two magnificent brooches are similar enough to be mistaken as designed by the same artist. But they are not!
More Identified Flower Pins Here are some additional flower pins by each designer. Actually they are not as similar as the two above. But they are still noteworthy. First is a group of early Lenora Dame pins when they were available on etsy.com are below.

Another rare example of Liz Palacios pins that I found on Jewellery Kaleidoscsope is below. It is probably the most outstanding of all the post flower power pins. It is absolutely magnificent.

A Liz Palacios floral brooch found on Poshmark
A Reminder to Collectors These flower pins are some of the most magnificent I've ever seen. But remember, they are not flower power pins. By definition these brooches have much more latitude in design and construction. This does not mean that there are not flower power pins that are also quite attractive. But they are by definition limited in what they can include.
Sources and Resources

Flower Power Descendants

Lenora Dame Studio

Lenora Dame Studio Website

Lenora Dame Designer Spotlight

Liz Palacios on Hispanic Executive

Liz Palacios on Regencies

Liz Palacios Turquoise Brooch

Liz Palacios Brown and Gold Brooch
			

			
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						RAISING SOCIAL AWARENESS, Socio-Political, The ALISON D. GILBERT Blog					
				
			
			
				‘Flower Power and Pins’ Defined
			

							
					September 28, 2024
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DEFINITION AND DESCRIPTION OF FLOWER POWER AND PINS
Description: ‘An affordable token, a flower shaped symbol of flower power constructed of molded steel and enamel paint that represents the socio-political mood of the mid 1960s to 1970s.’ 
In fact, there is such an abundance of mass produced pins that their identity remains a mystery even to this day. Specifically, there are no identifying marks, no designer names, no known countries of origin, or anything to distinguish or identify them.
Actually, the definition of flower power itself is almost as undocumented as the origin of the flower power pins themselves. In fact this post can do little more than gather up descriptions and anecdotes of flower power and pins.
Flower Power image above and quote to the right and below from the article in 1-800flowers.com ‘petal talk®’ written by Michelle Yastremsky
The Background “Coined in 1965 by acclaimed poet and voice of his generation Allen Ginsberg, ‘flower power’ was used to inspire a movement in which anti-war demonstrators focused on positive values such as peace and love to instead of brute force and rebellion in order to ‘fight’ for freedom.”
The Concept ‘The concept first comes into being while Ginsberg helps organize a protest against the Vietnam War in Berkeley, California.’
Ginsberg Essay ‘In his essay “Demonstration or Spectacle as Example, As Communication,” Ginsberg describes a tactic using peace as a “weapon.” He suggests “masses of flowers – a visual spectacle – especially concentrated on the front lines.” 
He continues, “…marchers should bring harmonicas, flutes, recorders, guitars, banjos, and violins.” The Beatnik poet goes on to invite all previously persecuted groups to join the revolution, turning the phrase into a movement of peace, hope, unity, and above all – imagination.’
Allen Ginsberg Beatnik Poet and coiner of the term “flower power” from bluerailroad.wordpress
The History of Flower Power
The History of Flower Power by Michelle Yastremsky
“The ‘Flower’ in flower power
Quoting from Michelle Yastremsky “The hippies of the 1960s and 1970s take Ginsberg’s message of peaceful protesting and incorporate it into their fashions and culture. Both men and women wear flowers from on their clothing to in their hair. 
“Flowers in their hair range from floral head wreaths to slipping a single a dandelion into their groovy headbands (a trend that has resurfaced in fashion today). Bright, floral prints become extremely popular as do floral inspired patches.
“Some hippies even paint the flower symbol on their faces to show their support and dedication to the cause. With its natural and simplistic beauty, it’s not surprising that the flower becomes the ultimate symbol of peace and love for this counterculture and era!”
AMERICAN LITERARY REFERENCES
The Art of Flower Power

The Art of Flower Power by Zak Nguyen

Paterfamilias—I Allen Ginsberg’s work to preserve the universe.

By Jane Kramer

August 9, 1968
How Flower Power Worked PREV NEXT By: Cristen Conger

“Although Ginsberg’s essay doesn’t use the exact phrase “flower power,” he was the first to expound on the potency of flowers as “a visual spectacle” to simultaneously disarm opponents and influence thought.”
Flower Power from Wikipedia
PERSPECTIVE FROM ACROSS THE POND
Vintage Jewelry Design ‘Classics to Collect and Wear by Caroline Cox

Vintage Jewel Design, Classics to collect and wear

 Vintage jewelry design classics to collect and wear by Caroline Cox published by Lark Jewelry & Beading, pg.139[/caption]
LarkCrafts.com

An Imprint of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.

387 Park Avenue South, NYC, NY 10016


			

			
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						Accessories, Fashion, The ALISON D. GILBERT Blog					
				
			
			
				The Flower Pin Evolution
			

							
					September 23, 2024
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A Lenora Dame Studio Brooch with a classic flower power pin at its center
THE FLOWER PIN EVOLUTION

 It is first the original flower power pin, a token in the shape and spirit of a flower that is a symbol of a socio-political statement. 
Then over time it transforms into a magnificent piece of jewelry with more monetary than political value. In other words, it starts out as a simple, very affordable pin with one or two layers of petals.
With time The evolution continues into jewelry with three or four layers of petals even with added costume jewelry in its center. But keep in mind, these are not classic flower power pins.
Flower Pin Evolution from classic, basic one layer petals to Lenora Dame magnificent jewelry.
Flower Brooches from Lenora Dame Studio all with strong resemblance to flower power pins
FURTHER FLOWER PINS EVOLUTIONS
With time, tastes, and politics, comes the distant relatives to flower pins jewelry evolution. One stops seeing everyday flower tokens replaces with more expensive and extravagant signed pieces. 
Flower Brooches Evolved beyond flower power pins
MORE FLOWER JEWELRY
One can look in hindsight for inspiration from flower pins to growing numbers of signed, costume and costly jewelry. Before, during, and after the flower power movement, flowers have always brought joy to the heart. Here are some precious examples.
More jewelry with a flower theme


			

			
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						DESIGN, The ALISON D. GILBERT Blog, Vintage Fashion					
				
			
			
				Classic Flower Power Pin Styles
			

							
					September 19, 2024
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Free image of wildflowers on yahoo.com
Flower power pin styles blossom in anonymous abundance just as wildflowers bloom in nature in all their colorful splendor. 
Neither identification nor documentation exist for flower power pin styles in all their varieties before their huge popularity, during their craze in the 1960s and 70s, or even today as collectibles.
Therefore the opportunity continues to exist for a collector like myself to attempt to identify and provide a clear definition of them now in 2024. Let’s start with the components that qualify a 1960s-1970s brooch for flower power pin recognition.
CLASSIC FLOWER POWER PIN COMPONENTS
Here are the basic flower power pin components:

a. each component is molded steel

b. each component color(s) is enamel paint

c. there are usually one or two layers of petals (sometimes three even four) that are symmetrical on each layer

d. the front of the pin looks like a daisy

e. the center is also molded steel with a color of enamel paint

f. stems are also steel with enamel paint

g. the back of the pin component that holds it all together is a continuous screw in mechanism also made of metal

h. a center ‘button’ made of the same material but not necessarily the same color
The four images above illustrate the components of flower power pins
CLASSIC FLOWER POWER PIN STYLES
The following are all symmetrical daisy petal pins. Small pins have one layer of petals. Next, medium pins can have two layers of petal. Last, large pins can have three and even four layers of petals:

a. small (@1 1/2″ diameter)

b. small with stem (@ 3″ long)

c. medium (@2 1/2″ diameter)

d. medium with stem (@ 3 3/4″ long)

e. large (3″ diameter)

f. large with stem (unknown)
Flower power pin styles with sizes listed in text
MY CONCLUSION
The FPP that I have described and illustrated here are what I consider to be the original classic FPP templates and designs. There are many other styles in addition that are shown below. I suspect they are from other companies. Since I know of no contrary documentation, I conclude my study as such.
DERIVATIVE COMPONENTS AND STYLES OF FLOWER PINS
The following are what I call derivative flower pins. They do not fit the parameter of either of the first two sets of illustrations. But they loosely fit the idea but not the classic definition of a flower power pin style.
These three pins are in the Derivative style
MORE DISCUSSION ABOUT FLOWER POWER/FLOWER POWER PINS
A substantial amount of discussion does exist about flower power pins. But their existence is anecdotal rather than identification or description. Although it is entertaining to read them, they do not assist at all for identification. Some of these articles include:

The History of Flower Power

Flower Power from Wikipedia

The Art of Flower Power

The Flower Power Project On Actipedia


			

			
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						Fashion, The ALISON D. GILBERT Blog, Vintage and Collectible					
				
			
			
				My Favorite Collectible Treasures
			

							
					September 11, 2024
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On 1st dibs.com a Butler and Wilson Gripoix Brooch
I swoon over my favorite collectible treasures. In fact, sometimes I even get heart palpitations or break out into a cold sweat when I see them.
All my favorite collectible treasures are featured on line. Sometimes due to their cost and lack of availability, they can only become mine in my dreams. 
IN MY DREAMS Then I have to be content with including them in online stories like this one with photos of them. On occasion, I can purchase one or save up to get one as a special treat.
Specifically the vintage collectibles I treasure most are accessories, namely handbags and jewelry. Some have been affordable and assessable. Some are not. Here are examples of both.

HANDBAGS
Coach, Dooney & Bourke My love of handbags started decades ago with Coach as well as Dooney & Bourke. They were all new when I started to buy them. But over time I discovered collecting, in other words, vintage. Infact, my taste runs towards the vintage rather than the new.

Lucite Beehive Then I travel further backwards to discover the vintage handbag(s) I am wild about today. Probably one of the most extraordinary handbags I have ever seen is a lucite handbag called beehive.
A closeup of metal bees to left. Handbag itself below closed and open. The bees are made out of metal. Considered the ‘Holy Grail’ of Lucite bags.




Furla Thermoplastic The composition of these outrageous bags is thermoplastic or rubber. In fact, there are two incarnations of these unique and totally desirable handbags. The 1970s reveals the first delicious version as the jelly bags. Then the second reveal is the candy re•bag at the Milan Fashion Week in 2022.

Furla Re•candy exhibit at the 2022 Milan Fashion Week featured in a Town & Country article, photo courtesy of Furla.

Judith Leiber Bags These handbags are really kookie and ultimately are meant to be talked about evening bags. As much as their sticker price on it own is topic for conversation, their themes are as well. For example, this donut shaped sparkle clutch can’t hold more than a house key, handkerchief, and the proverbial ‘dime for a phone call’ goes for just under $1,000 second hand. Notice that there’s no room for a cell phone. But I am sure anyone would lend its wearer their cell phone if necessary.

21st Century Judith Leiber Donut with Rainbow Sprinkles Clutch on 1st dibs.com

JEWELRY
Flower Power Pins

1960s Flower Power Pink Yellow Polka Dot Brooch Enameled Vintage
I was collecting flower power pins before I really even know what they are and represent. The one pictured here is one of my favorites. It is even better looking in person.
I have written two blog posts about flower power pins. They are Flower Power Rocks and The Flower Power Mystery. Click on these links to read them.
 
 
  
Lenora Dame Studio

A brooch from the early days of the Lenora Dame Studio
In the early days of the establishment of her studio, the Lenora Dame brooches looked like derivatives of flower power pins. In fact, as jewelry rather than socio-political statements, they are quite beautiful. 
To the left is an example of one of her early brooches. Notice that there are three layers that alone are in the style of a flower power pin. Then for an added touch of that genre is a flower power pin in the center.
  
 
Stanley Hagler N.Y.C.

Gorgeous Vibrant Glass Bead Flowers Vintage Pin Brooch
 This is one of my favorite collectible treasures that will remain a dream. At $499. All I can do is enjoy the pictures and history of this magnificent pin. 
Notice the derivative of the flower power pin with two glass bead flowers and lots of additional glass decoration. For more information about Stanley Hagler N.Y.C., click on the link.
 
  
CONCLUSION
Whether you dream about vintage collectible treasures or collect them yourself, I hope you will find these favorites of mine as much of a pleasure as I do.


			


			
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The Vintage Flower Pins Identification System

Beyond Flower Power Pins

‘Flower Power and Pins’ Defined

DEFINITION AND DESCRIPTION OF FLOWER POWER AND PINS

Actually, the definition of flower power itself is almost as undocumented as the origin of the flower power pins themselves. In fact this post can do little more than gather up descriptions and anecdotes of flower power and pins.

“The ‘Flower’ in flower power

AMERICAN LITERARY REFERENCES

PERSPECTIVE FROM ACROSS THE POND

Vintage Jewelry Design ‘Classics to Collect and Wear by Caroline Cox

Vintage Jewel Design, Classics to collect and wear Vintage jewelry design classics to collect and wear by Caroline Cox published by Lark Jewelry & Beading, pg.139[/caption] LarkCrafts.com An Imprint of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. 387 Park Avenue South, NYC, NY 10016

The Flower Pin Evolution

With time The evolution continues into jewelry with three or four layers of petals even with added costume jewelry in its center. But keep in mind, these are not classic flower power pins.

FURTHER FLOWER PINS EVOLUTIONS

With time, tastes, and politics, comes the distant relatives to flower pins jewelry evolution. One stops seeing everyday flower tokens replaces with more expensive and extravagant signed pieces.

MORE FLOWER JEWELRY

One can look in hindsight for inspiration from flower pins to growing numbers of signed, costume and costly jewelry. Before, during, and after the flower power movement, flowers have always brought joy to the heart. Here are some precious examples.

Classic Flower Power Pin Styles

Therefore the opportunity continues to exist for a collector like myself to attempt to identify and provide a clear definition of them now in 2024. Let’s start with the components that qualify a 1960s-1970s brooch for flower power pin recognition.

CLASSIC FLOWER POWER PIN COMPONENTS

CLASSIC FLOWER POWER PIN STYLES

MY CONCLUSION

The FPP that I have described and illustrated here are what I consider to be the original classic FPP templates and designs. There are many other styles in addition that are shown below. I suspect they are from other companies. Since I know of no contrary documentation, I conclude my study as such.

DERIVATIVE COMPONENTS AND STYLES OF FLOWER PINS

The following are what I call derivative flower pins. They do not fit the parameter of either of the first two sets of illustrations. But they loosely fit the idea but not the classic definition of a flower power pin style.

MORE DISCUSSION ABOUT FLOWER POWER/FLOWER POWER PINS

My Favorite Collectible Treasures

IN MY DREAMS Then I have to be content with including them in online stories like this one with photos of them. On occasion, I can purchase one or save up to get one as a special treat.

HANDBAGS

Coach, Dooney & Bourke My love of handbags started decades ago with Coach as well as Dooney & Bourke. They were all new when I started to buy them. But over time I discovered collecting, in other words, vintage. Infact, my taste runs towards the vintage rather than the new.

Lucite Beehive Then I travel further backwards to discover the vintage handbag(s) I am wild about today. Probably one of the most extraordinary handbags I have ever seen is a lucite handbag called beehive.

JEWELRY

CONCLUSION

Whether you dream about vintage collectible treasures or collect them yourself, I hope you will find these favorites of mine as much of a pleasure as I do.

Vintage Jewel Design, Classics to collect and wear
Vintage jewelry design classics to collect and wear by Caroline Cox published by Lark Jewelry & Beading, pg.139[/caption]

LarkCrafts.com
An Imprint of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.
387 Park Avenue South, NYC, NY 10016