A Lenora Dame Studio Brooch beside an original one layer flower power pin
Some early Lenora Dame Brooches may be flower power pin direct descendants. Both have a shared design element like a child who resembles a parent.
FLOWER POWER PIN DESIGN EMBELLISHMENT
Flower pin embellishment involves the ecolution from a single layer pattern through multi-layer pins.
First come the simple, one layer flower power pins. Then over a period of time they likely evolve into the multi-tiered, embellished flower power pins as we call them. A picture of this is at the left.
EARLY LENORA DAME STUDIO BROOCHES
After embellished flower pins are the rage come the magnificent, early Lenora Dame Brooches. But the brooches themselves are not flower power pins. In fact, they cannot be. The explanation for this is available in the article Not A Flower Power Pin.
None the less, they appear to have a relationship to flower power pins. In fact early Lenora Dame brooches could be the very next generation of pins in the continuation of a logical design ancestry from anonymous simple then embellished flower power pins to identifiable, early Lenora Dame Studio jewelry.
Another resemblance between Lenora Dame Studio and an embellished flower power pin.
Example As another example of their offspring to strengthen this conclusion that some early Lenora Dame brooches are the flower pin direct descendants is the following pair. See the pictures at left to observe them.
Enlargement Enlarged Lenora Dame brooch on the left and embellished flower pin on the right.
Close Up Here is an enlargement of these two brooches to reveal a leaf appearing directly before the center of the pin that is unusual but in both these pins. The leaf is light blue on the Lenora Dame brooch on the left and white on the embellished flower pin to the right.
IINTERGENERATIONAL EVOLUTION
From left to right, the evolution from the original, basic flower power pin to the Lenora Dame Studio brooch
CONCLUSION
Although there is no other written correlation that the early Lenora Dame Studio brooches are flower power pin direct descendants, the evidence that I detail above offers a logical explanation in its favor. Hopefully this information will shed some light on the pin evolution since no other documentation exists from extensive research.
A Lenora Dame Studio Brooch with a classic flower power pin at its center
THE FLOWER PIN EVOLUTION
It is first the original flower power pin, a token in the shape and spirit of a flower that is a symbol of a socio-political statement.
Then over time it transforms into a magnificent piece of jewelry with more monetary than political value. In other words, it starts out as a simple, very affordable pin with one or two layers of petals.
With time The evolution continues into jewelry with three or four layers of petals even with added costume jewelry in its center. But keep in mind, these are not classic flower power pins.
Flower Pin Evolution from classic, basic one layer petals to Lenora Dame magnificent jewelry.Flower Brooches from Lenora Dame Studio all with strong resemblance to flower power pins
FURTHER FLOWER PINS EVOLUTIONS
With time, tastes, and politics, comes the distant relatives to flower pins jewelry evolution. One stops seeing everyday flower tokens replaces with more expensive and extravagant signed pieces.
Flower Brooches Evolved beyond flower power pins
MORE FLOWER JEWELRY
One can look in hindsight for inspiration from flower pins to growing numbers of signed, costume and costly jewelry. Before, during, and after the flower power movement, flowers have always brought joy to the heart. Here are some precious examples.
Polka Dot Flower Brooch Pin Purple White Enamel Long Stem Floral Vintage on ebay
‘Flower Power Pins: The 1960s-1970s’ is the ongoing mystery of the flower power pin. In order to get a clue to this mystery, it is necessary to learn about collectible vintage jewelry before, during, and after the existence these pins themselves.
In addition this collection of articles chronicles my journey that leads to them, the pins themselves, and the course I take in search of them. Actually, it is the course I am still on to this day.
My Journey
At first, I do not start out attempting to solve this mystery. In fact, I do not even know there was an unsolved situation compared to other costume jewelry of that time, the 1960s into the 1970s. As I dig deeper the mystery becomes even darker. This is because the more I look for identification and verification, the less I find. Therefore, the more questions I have.
The Anonymous Pins In fact, I can find nothing in writing that identifies these beauties. For example, what is their place of origin? where they are manufactured? who designed them? Is this information purposely hidden or is it just a coincidence? Is it possible that these answers do not have significance when they are made and it is only now that these questions tug at me to know these answers?
Invitation So, without further ado here is the path I take, where is starts, where it leads me, and where I am now. Be forewarned that it is not a straight line. And it is not even complete. But this is where solving the mystery is today. It by no means is complete yet. So join me on my journey to solving the flower power mystery.
On 1st dibs.com a Butler and Wilson Gripoix Brooch
I swoon over my favorite collectible treasures. In fact, sometimes I even get heart palpitations or break out into a cold sweat when I see them.
All my favorite collectible treasures are featured on line. Sometimes due to their cost and lack of availability, they can only become mine in my dreams.
IN MY DREAMS
Then I have to be content with including these items from online stories like this one with photos of them. On occasion, I can purchase one or save up to get one as a special treat.
Specifically the vintage collectibles I treasure most are accessories, namely handbags and jewelry. Some have been affordable and assessable. Some are not. Here are examples of both.
HANDBAGS
Coach, Dooney & Bourke My love of handbags started decades ago with Coach as well as Dooney & Bourke. They were all new when I started to buy them. But over time I discovered collecting, in other words, vintage. Infact, my taste runs towards the vintage rather than the new.
Lucite Beehive Then I travel further backwards to discover the vintage handbag(s) I am wild about today. Probably one of the most extraordinary handbags I have ever seen is a lucite handbag called beehive.
A closeup of metal bees to left. Handbag itself below left closed and below right open. The bees are made out of metal. This bag is considered the ‘Holy Grail’ of Lucite bags.
Furla Thermoplastic The composition of these outrageous bags is thermoplastic or rubber. In fact, there are two incarnations of these unique and totally desirable handbags. The 1970s reveals the first delicious version as the jelly bags. Then the second reveal is the candy re•bag at the Milan Fashion Week in 2022. Furla Re•candy exhibit at the 2022 Milan Fashion Week featured in a Town & Country article, photo courtesy of Furla.
Judith Leiber Bags These handbags are really kookie and ultimately are meant to be talked about evening bags. As much as their sticker price on it own is topic for conversation, their themes are as well. For example, this donut shaped sparkle clutch can’t hold more than a house key, handkerchief, and the proverbial ‘dime for a phone call’ goes for just under $1,000 second hand. Notice that there’s no room for a cell phone. But I am sure anyone would lend its wearer their cell phone if necessary. 21st Century Judith Leiber Donut with Rainbow Sprinkles Clutch on 1st dibs.com
JEWELRY
Flower Power Pins 1960s Flower Power Pink Yellow Polka Dot Brooch Enameled VintageI was collecting flower power pins before I really even know what they are and represent. The one pictured here is one of my favorites. It is even better looking in person.
Lenora Dame Studio A brooch from the early days of the Lenora Dame StudioIn the early days of the establishment of her studio, the Lenora Dame brooches looked like derivatives of flower power pins. In fact, as jewelry rather than socio-political statements, they are quite beautiful.
To the left is an example of one of her early brooches. Notice that there are three layers that alone are in the style of a flower power pin. Then for an added touch of that genre is a flower power pin in the center.
Stanley Hagler N.Y.C. Gorgeous Vibrant Glass Bead Flowers Vintage Pin Brooch This is one of my favorite collectible treasures that will remain a dream. At $499. All I can do is enjoy the pictures and history of this magnificent pin.
Notice the derivative of the flower power pin with two glass bead flowers and lots of additional glass decoration. For more information about Stanley Hagler N.Y.C., click on the link.
CONCLUSION
Whether you dream about vintage collectible treasures or collect them yourself, I hope you will find these favorites of mine as much of a pleasure as I do.
A derivative of a flower power pin from the Lenora Dame Studio. The inner layer of this brooch is actually an original flower power pin.
When I first saw this pin I thought it was a four layer flower power pin. In fact, looking closely, I am sure the top yellow daisy pin layer is an authentic flower power pin.
But there are several aspects that disqualify the sum total of layers from being an original socio-political statement.
In other words it is NOT an authentic flower power pin. It is a piece of jewelry, even a work of art. But more about that to come later in this blog post.
This is a collection of Lenora Dame brooches all in the style of flower power pins.
HISTORY
‘The first seeds of this company are planted when Lenora gives up her thriving career as an advertising executive to focus full time on designing jewelry using her personal button collection.’ Note that she also uses a flower power pin as a layer.’ Her sister, Alison Dame, soon takes business operations in hand, and in 2001 Dame Design, LLC and a full accessories collection is born.’
Description “Noted especially for her iconic “haute bohemian” collections of necklaces, earrings and bracelets, designer Lenora Dame has set herself apart with a fearless approach that genetically recombines . . . ” Yahoo.com
Influences There are many creative influences to this jewelry. To understand the group of brooches featured here, visit these two blogpost, Not A Flower Power Pin and Flower Power Pin Mystery.
LENORA DAME BROOCH DESCRIBED IN LAYERS
To me this pieces is a work of art. In this context, I wish to go into a detailed examination of it.
A four layer Lenora Dame brooch in the style of a flower power pin but decorative not socio-political
A. The first layer has intentional holes in it and is sage green with a spray of purple
B. The second layer is copper with brush strokes of navy blue
C. The third layer is light cobalt blue
D. The fourth layer is a pin in itself composed of gold colored metal and green rhinestones
INSPIRATION I do believe that the jewelry at this stage of Lenora Dame’s studio career used flower power pins are her inspiration. But from this layer analysis, I will show why this brooch is not and can not be a flower power pin. It can only be and is derivative of a FPP. The reasons are that they are attributed to her and most likely signed.
Also they are either one-of-a-kind or very limited editions. Clearly some hand work has gone into these pieces rather than mass produced items. None the less they are a delightful addition to the world of vintage costume jewelry.
This Lenora Dame piece is also derivative of a flower power pin. It is four layers plus a gold pin with turquoise rhinestones in the center. The layers are specifically, burgundy, copper and tan, sage, gold leaves.
Lenore Dame Metal Flower Brooch in Gold & Violet – One-of-a-Kind Jewelry but not a flower power pin due to the embellishments of gold and stones in the center of it. Pin owned by author.
This magnificent brooch from around the time of Flower Power Jewelry is Not an original/classic flower power pin.
The reason is that it has gold filigree, decorative stone, is a one of a kind piece, and is signed. Therefore it is an embellishment of an original/classic flower petal ‘flower power pin’ design.
Decorative Vintage Pin This is a vintage upscale design inspired by the very popular actual flower power pin from around the 1960s. But it is a piece of jewelry from The Lenore Dame Studio using some of the basic FPP elements but for profit and decoration rather than a socio-political statement.
What is a Flower Power Pin The original/classic flower power pin (or FPP for short) has a daisy petal pattern and is made from “molded steel and colored with enamel paint” exclusively. So anything else would not be a classic/original FPP even if it looks similar to it. In fact a major distinction is that a FPP never has a designers identity and is not one-of-a-kind. Here are some examples.
These four Flower-Power-Brooches differ in daisy colors and number of petal layers only. The stem is not a distraction from their design. They have all but only the elements to qualify them as flower power pins.
What is Not a Flower Power Pin A daisy design pattern that has more than just molded steel and sprayed enamel is not an official/original FPP although many are categorized as such today. If a piece has a matching pair of earring, I find it also questionable. Lastly, if a piece has a designer name on it, it can not be FPP. It is jewelry and its purpose is decorative. Here are some additional examples.
There are similarities between the two groups of pins. But the second group is derivative of the first. The style attempts to be similar. But that is as far as it goes. There are gemstones, gold veneer, signed by the designer, and are much more costly than flower power pins.
Why Is the Distinction So Important?
As explained in the previous blog post, The Flower Power Mystery, flower power pins are more important socially than artistically. This is not to say that they are not adorable, colorful, and collectible. But at the height of their existence, they are making a socio-political statement rather than being just decorative.
A Second Thought on Anonymity The fact that the flower power pins had no identifying marks and that nothing is written about their origin may have a very simple explanation. Companies may not have minded manufacturing them. But perhaps they did not want the public to know what their socio-political positions were. To avoid that, they remained anonymous in every way they could.
Flower Power by Definition Actually the term ‘flower power’ was coined by beatnik poet Allen Ginsberg, to symbolize peace, love, and non-violence. Keep in mind that their popularity is during the Vietnam War era. Therefore a FPP represents the anti-Vietnam War sentiment that many young people of that time feel. Instead of being just a pretty piece of jewelry, an official FPP makes a socio-political statement that is recognizable even today.
This flower power enamel metal pin rocks with orange explosion
Flower Power Jewelry rocks even though it is not fancy or expensive. In addition it is inspiring even though it has no semi-precious or precious stones. Lastly, it is made from an inexpensive metal, molded steel and sprayed with colorful enamel paint
What makes Flower Power Jewelry rock? It’s the bold colors and the sheer simplicity of the designs that distinguish it from all other types of jewelry, before, during, or after.
Flower Power
I love flower power jewelry as much as I love lucite pocket books. They both reflect a tremendous amount of imagination and appeal. Not so with lucite bags any more.
But for the most part in their day both lucite handbags and enamel brooches are very accessible to a large population due to the very reasonable cost.
1960s FP Pink Yellow PDB Enameled VintageToday they are collectors items and many reflect that in their cost. But I love them so much that whenever I can, I treat myself to an enamel metal pin.
So far I have not found a lucite bag I can afford. But this year my husband is starting another new tradition.
That is, he is giving me a flower power brooch for my birthday. Yes, a flower power brooch can last a lifetime rather than wilt and wither away. I am really looking forward to this new rest of my life tradition.
Alternative fashion materials become wildly popular during the 20th century. Their zenith is the 1950s, when lucite handbags become the most trendy.
The reason primarily is that some materials have a commercial restriction during WWII. Therein lies the opportunity and even necessity to find alternative materials for the public. Because of various challenges including the one regarding WWII restriction, new materials enter the fashion scene.
First is celluloid, then bakelite. Afterwards bakelite evolves into lucite. In other words, each alternative material is an important improvement over the previous one. Today all these alternative materials exist as extremely collectible.
Examples of cellulose, bakelite and acrylic as alternative material jewelry and accessories
CELLULOID
Celluloid Jewelry The use of alternative fashion materials begins with the invention of celluloid. It actually starts as a trade name for a type of plastic invented in the mid-1800s. Over time this becomes the generic term. The material’s use is to produce many different kinds of items, including jewelry.
From the early 1900s through about 1940, a primary use for celluloid is jewelry production. In fact it is used especially as a substitute for tortoise shell and ivory. Unfortunately it is unstable and not an optimal alternative.
Cellulose Definition Cellulose definition from thoughco.com
Cellulose Jewelry Samples and History John Wesley Hyatt is the inventor of celluloid. He patents it in 1869. From the early 1900s through about 1940, celluloid is a frequent substitute in jewelry production. Its range is from bangle bracelets with rhinestone decoration, hair combs resembling tortoise shell, and chains used to hold charms made of Bakelite. One main issue with celluloid, however, is its flammable nature. As other plastics develop, fewer and fewer pieces of jewelry are made of celluloid.
BAKELITE
Bakelite is the next of the alternative fashion materials. Definition of bakeliteBakelite bangles available on etsy.com
Examples of Bakelite Jewelry Examples from cheaper99.com of Bakelite jewelry
LUCITE
Difference between lucite and acrylic by acme plastic.com
History of Lucite Handbags In the late 1940s, a new plastic, Lucite comes onto the scene big time. Its designs are not anonymous, but there are lucite purses by noted designers such as Rialto, Llewellyn, Patricia of Miami, Wilardy, Miami Handbags, and Myles Originals. Actually, they sell in for as little as $5 but also go up to $75. In fact, Hollywood stars are among the first to festoon these unusual bags.
Marilyn Monroe is adorned by the latest lucite in the film, Niagara.
For a detailed display of lucite handbags, go to the blog post 1950s Lucite Handbags Examples of Lucite handbags 1950s
THERMOPLASTIC
Two Generations of Outrageous Alternative Material Handbags From out of no where, and even the company employees don’t know when it came to be the Furla Brand Jelly Bag. Like nothing that came before it, and one resurrection since, this is one of my all time favorite handbags. Believed to be birthed in the third quarter of the 20th century, this Yellow school bag is a knockout.
Furla Jelly Bag In fact, Aldo’s daughter Giovanna gets the credit for the invention of the original jelly bag. Then there is a second generation, the re•candy bag.
Furla Re•candy Bag The Furla Re•candy Bag is currently one of the hottest fashion statements amongst young and Gen z women. In addition, this new Re•candy is totally recyclable. This is all due to the fact that this fine leatherware company has also a growing focus on recyclability and sustainability.
Most noteworthy are those designed for Women’s Fashion Week SS22 in Milan. This Furla Candy is a mini satchel bag made of recycled thermoplastic polyurethane gathered and restored using previously-produced materials. Furla-Re•candy exhibit at the 2022 Milan Fashion Week featured in a Town & Country article, photo courtesy of Furla.
ENAMEL METAL
I am a huge fan of what comes to be known as ‘flower power’. This is a jewelry type and lifestyle with acknowledgement by celebrities like Alan Ginsberg, Andy Warhol, and Mary Quant. Flower power, enamel metal contrasts traditional high end jewelry and chic lifestyles.
Just purchased, some flower power for me. Two pins, one with matching earrings. In fact jewelry is made using inexpensive metal, without any semi-precious or precious stones. None the less, the designs and colors are outstanding and simple. They are as popular today as when they represented the mood of the day and the philosophy of their time.
A VINTAGE PINK LUCITE PURSE HANDBAG WITH CLEAR ETCHED LID displays the whimsical touches that made Lucite pocketbooks so popular after the deprivations of World War II: an angular Art Deco body featuring shiny strands of gold and silver lame embedded between laminated layers of pink Lucite, lollipop handle, and transparent carved lid through which the bag’s hot pink lining is visible. It sells on eBay for $355 on May 5, 2020.
In the late 1940s, a new material called plastic or lucite is introduced. Actually, these bags become extremely popular.
In fact, already noted designers such as Rialto, Llewellyn, Patricia of Miami, Wilardy, Miami Handbags, and Myles Originals design and produce. To make them accessible to women at all income levels, they sell for as little as $5. But then they also go up to around $75.
Examples of Lucite Handbags
Examples of Lucite handbags 1950s
“Women of all ages carry these bags, now works of art,” quotes Frank Maresca, coauthor with Robert Gottlieb of A Certain Style, The Art of the Plastic Handbag 1949-59 (Knopf). “They come in shapes such as beehives, lanterns, and hatboxes, and embellished with rhinestones, colored glass, pearls, and shells.”
Other Examples of Lucite Handbags As mentioned earlier several well known designer are also responsible for lucite handbags designs. They include Rialto, Llewellyn, Patricia of Miami, Wilardy, Miami Handbags, and Myles Originals. Regarding this are examples below.
Other samples of 1950s Lucite Handbags from Charles S. Kahn, Wilardy, and Florida Handbags
Traditional stainless steel Celtic knot Kladdagh ring from faire.com
Vintage costume jewelry has always been my preference over precious and even semi-precious stone jewelry.
For example, I am not a fan of the diamond engagement ring. In addition whenever family jewelry needed dividing between siblings, an ordeal followed.
Therefore, I am perfectly happy with what I collect now. In fact, I prefer to make my purchases from the second vintage category for very reasonable prices.
VINTAGE COSTUME JEWELRY
Most recently I am being creative with a project called ‘The Be Jeweled Collection of Handbags and Accessories’. As part of this project, I am making use of collectible handbags and vintage jewelry. At last I have a way for these things to stop gathering dust. They also are looking rather artistic while still wearable.
English Bone ChinaOrange Laura Ashley straw bag with bone chine brooch decor
I am also learning about various categories of vintage costume jewelry. A very popular vintage category is English bone china brooches.
Since they are so delicate, they tend to have small chips on them. Due to that I do not mind using them as decor on handbags rather than as brooches. Learn more about the history of bone china brooches at this link.
English bone china brooch by Stafforshire (top row second from left belowEnglish bone china brooches from Yahoo
Enameled Metal Another very popular combination of materials is enameled metal or molded steel with enamel paint. The technique and the look are very different from bone china. There is a simplicity and affordability to this jewelry that contrasts previous conservative ornate styles. Most enamel metal brooches are based on a daisy but in very bright, simple colors.(2)
In fact this generation of jewelry is termed ‘flower power’ by beatnick Allen Ginsberg. Designer Mary Quant is the poster girl for this period. Most impressive is the artwork by Andy Warhowl that represents this period, the 1960s. Besides these details there is no documentation of the period’s majority of designers or manufacturers.(1) Instead, as a reference one seller describes them in the following way.
Retro vibrant enameled floral brooch popular in the mid 1900’s is available on ebay.Vibrant colored enamel metal brooches is from mid 1900’s and available on ebay
More about Vintage Costume Jewelry
A simple and very typical enameled metal brooch festoons a light green purse, designer unnamed
At left is an example of an enamel metal brooch on a purse from an unnamed designer.
In fact, this daisy brooch is one of the most popular designs made. It is available in all kinds of color combinations and can be purchased at ebay online(2).
Next are examples of Russian folk art known as Palekh lacquer miniatures. The top one is a rectangular box. Another is a round box. The third is a brooch. Note that the larger box and the brooch are signed and in excellent condition(3).
Below is a purse with a single Russian pin for focus and emphasis.
Handbag with Russian Lacquer PinContrast and complement are shown here of a Stuart Weitzman(4) purse with a lacquered pin
